Type: Trad, 9 pitches
FA: James Lucas & Nik Berry
Page Views: 3,756 total · 61/month
Shared By: hkennedy on Jun 8, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The Final Frontier offers some of the best climbing in Yosemite. With a mellow approach, tons of shade, easy rappels and truly amazing climbing this route gets my vote for one of the best free climbs in the Valley.

P1. Start in the obvious wide chimney (5.6) just left of the Romulan Warbird. Pass a tree on the left side with a bolt and head right to some 5.10 face climbing protected by bolts. Belay at 2-bolt stance.

P2. 5.10 corner climbing to an awesome 5.11 flake with a bolt. Belay at 2-bolt stance.

P3. Varied crack climbing (5.10+) off the belay. Several crux sections on this pitch with bolts/pins and thin gear (5.11c). Belay at the base of the obvious white corner on bolts.

P4. 5.11 stemming and crack climbing just off the belay to a left traverse into the base of a stunning grey corner. Pass a bolt and tackle 12+ stemming. Just after a sloppy rail at the top of the corner there is a key .75 cam placement. Exit right on some face holds and then traverse back left. Belay at a 2-bolt stance.

P5. Short and stout! 5.13- boulder problem protected by bolts to 5.12- climbing to the anchor.

P6. Awkward 5.11 climbing off the belay to the base of a wild corner. Thin 5.12 layback moves (green aliens work great) with the occasional finger lock lead to a small roof. Clip a bolt just over the roof and tackle the crux boulder problem (5.13a/b). A few more bolts of steep 5.11+ to the anchor.

P7. Steep 5.12- climbing past a few bolts leads to a hard 12c move off a crimp rail. 5.11 face climbing to an exposed anchor on bolts.

P8. Awesome 5.11+ climbing with steep crack climbing and knobs. A good long pitch that ends a perfect ledge.

P9. 5.9R past a bolt to less than vertical rack climbing to the top of the wall.

Protection

Its nice to have 3 green alien size cams for pitch 6 -- Double rack from Purple TCU to #2 Cam. I didn't place any nuts. 10 draws.

Rappel the route with two 60 meter ropes.

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