Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 7 pitches
FA: Dan McDevitt, Freddy Brewster, Holland Deyo
Page Views: 763 total · 59/month
Shared By: Ben Kraft on Feb 5, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and 2020 visits. Details

Description

Another nice addition to Fifi Buttress. First 5 pitches are clean and high quality. The 2018 “revised edition” of the Sloan book has a good topo.

P1: Follow a thin corner to bolted anchor 3/4 of the way to the big ledge. Starts between two bolted climbs at a small mossy alcove with a wider flake that you climb around. 11a
P2: Follow the thin, bouldery corner to the big ledge and to the bolted anchor 10ft to the right. Links with P1. 11a
P3: Crux. Mantle through the decomposing corner into the clean OW, maybe 10b, then stem up into the thin 5.11 corner/flare, then through an easier roof and over to a pedestal on the right. An optional #6 should put you on toprope through the opening moves but there’s alternative gear in the decomposing corner that might keep you off the ledge. 11b
P4: Climb up the sharp and steep thin hand crack. 10c
P5: More sharp and steep climbing. Short pitch, 10b
P6/P7: Pull through the bulge on 9+ fingers into easier climbing. The climbing starts to wander and the rock becomes dirtier. We rapped from the top of the 6th.

Apparently the climbing continues to the top of the formation via ~5 high quality pitches but I haven't climbed them -- see Sloan's topo for more info.

Rap with a 70 from p7 or top out and walk.

Location

Approach Fifi and turn left at the first rocky stream-bed/gully that takes you up the lower base (as for center of the universe, don’t go all the way to the midway, Voyager ledge). Walk past the start of Center of the Universe: Bird of Prey is one of the last climbs along the base and is probably only a couple hundred feet before the lower gully meets the midway ledge. Look for the cleaner, inset corner between two bolted lines.

Protection

Doubles .1 - #3, optional single #6.
Short pitches + bolted anchors means some of the larger and smaller doubles probably aren’t necessary.

Photos