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Prime Directive
5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in Fifi Buttress
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Bird of Prey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Center of the Universe T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dream Team T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Final Frontier, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Make It So T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 |
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More Burly than Girly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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More Girly than Burly T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nexus AKA The Niels Tietze Memorial Route, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Prime Directive T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Romulan Warbird T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Voyager T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 11 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.71073, -119.65013 |
| FA: | Margaret Glover and Trevor Shumaker FFA Alex Honnold? |
| Page Views: | 1,638 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Shumaker on Mar 2, 2021 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Sounds like Alex Honnold freed it and thinks it’s about 5.12+
This is a free variation to Dan McDevitt's 2001 aid route 911. It goes 99% free at 5.12 A0. The route follows thin crack systems, seams, knobs, steep face, and dihedrals up the steepest part of the Fifi Buttress; no wide climbing required. Most cruxes are protected by bolts.
P1-3 makes an excellent 5.12 climb on its own. Bring a kneebar pad for the steep and gymnastic p3.
Location
Approach as for voyager, starts about 75 feet right of the start of the "Voyager Ledge" at a right facing corner above a VW size boulder.
Descend by rapping with an 80m rope or walking off (3rd class).
Walk up to the summit of Fifi then head south til you get to the cliff above. Turn west following a ledge and crossing over the buttress west of Fifi. Descend a 2nd class gully until you can head back east toward the base of the route. Follow the base of the cliff until you reach the start of the route.
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