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Leading the stellar crack of pitch 2.
P1: Lieback to fingers to a small belay stance (or continue up to large ledge with pine tree). (5.9)
P2: Hands to a wide pod to a ledge. (5.8)
P3: Sustained fingers (5.7) through a couple of small roofs to a ledge. (5.8)
P4: Incipient cracks up to and over scary flake. Traverse up and right past two pins to huge "Crescent Ledge." (5.8)
P5: Follow right-facing dihedral on left side of ledge up, increasing in difficulty (5.6), or traverse left to the 5.5 R flakes. (5.6)
P6: Another dihedral up and left. Where it really steepens, step right onto the face past knobs and small placements. Either lieback on the right-hand side of the roof (5.7), or pull straight through at a pin (5.9).
P7: Follow ledges up and right, staying toward easier ground. (5.7 start, then 5.4)
About four more pitches of easy ground. Simul what you can. (mostly 5.0, occasional 5.4 to 5.6)
Park in a large parking area on the south side of the road. Follow obvious and signed trails to the slabs at the base of the dome. Take 3rd class slabs to the start of the route.
Descent: walk off the back side, and most of the way back to the start of the climb to regain climber trails back to the road.
Standard Rack up to #3 Camalot. Plus double nuts for the 400 feet or so of simul-climbing.
Traverse above the crescent ledge
Errett Allen free soloing "Regular Route".
Fairview detail. "regular route" area.
Photo by Bl...
Tony Tennessee on P5 above Crescent Ledge.
...and very close to the summit.
BETA PHOTO: Route tracing: NA 50 CLASSIC!
Tamara crusing up p1...The routes crux is located ...
Hollow flake variation on Cresent Arch pitch. The ...
leading up to the small roof above crescent ledge
Perhaps the best pitch of the climb
Me with Fred Beckey at the base parking lot! Wow!
Cheers.....Marc Hirt & Tim Hudgel on the summit of...
Photo by Blitzo.
Leading up pitch 3
BETA PHOTO: Regular Route fromt the base of the route
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from Crescent Ledge.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from Crescent Ledge.
|Comments on Regular Route
Sep 12, 2006
The climbing isn't that spectacular, but it's a long route and well worth doing.
|By James Beissel|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2006
You can link 1&2 with a 60m rope and about 20' of simul climbing. Climb past the tree on your left at the 200' mark and have your second start climbing as you continue up a handcrack to a stance on a nice ledge below the awesome finger crack of P3. The belay requires thin finger to finger sized pieces as I recall. From here you can make it to Crescent Ledge in two pitches and avoid the crappy hanging belay.
Aug 12, 2007
Climbed it this weekend. Great fun, ~5 hours car-to-car.
Some beta on P4. Do the Hollow Flake variation on the crescent arch pitch. Easy, exposed, and fun!
Aug 2, 2008
fun and accessible.
|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
May 8, 2009
Tremendous. P1 is climbable by bridging, sorry I mean stemming, even when there is a wet streak down the groove.
Sep 8, 2009
Agree with Blitzo, the climbing isnt spectacular but certainly fun. Lots more enjoyable stuff to do if there is a line. There was a little water seepage in the crack on the first pitch 9/7/09, not a problem at all. The first 4 pitches as we did it (up to pitch 6 in ST) were enjoyable. After that its a 4th class romp to the top with one or two moves of very easy 5th mixed in. We linked pitches 3 and 4 as well as 5 and 6 with a 70m. Simul-climbed to the top from the end of pitch 6 in the ST guide. If you are a fast party and you arent behind a slow party it is certainly possible to do this car to car in under 3 even belaying out the first half of the climb.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 12, 2009
outstanding route- good quality and interesting climbing the entire way. if you're crafty, you can get to the top of the interesting climbing in 4 70m rope lengths (or 5 if you dont like that upper traverse), then two more long lengths to the top.
take the supertaco rack if you do it this way for enough gear.
|By Craig Randleman|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 1, 2010
Topped out with some dudes from Mazama who were road-tripping with Fred Beckey! They showed us some vid clips on their nice camera of Fred rambling about all kinds of whacky shit. Tramped down to find Fred in the parking lot! Holy Shit! What a day!!!
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jul 3, 2010
This route can actually be climbed in one long pitch, but you'll need an 800 foot rope.
From: Mojave, CA
Sep 13, 2010
Perhaps the biggest surpise to me on this route was that most of the gear was small, not hand-size like I assumed from the grade. Bring nuts and doubles of tcu's/master cams. I think I placed the #3 C4 once on the whole route. A little disappointed at the quality, but it is a beautiful line up a big piece of rock. West Crack is better.
|By Dave Alden|
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.9 PG13
Great route, the crux is low on P1. Partner and I did the route in 8-9 pitches, you'd really have to try hard to do in it more pitches than that. The last 2-3 pitches can be simulclimbed or made into a scramble. One of the best routes in Tuolumne hands down.
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 19, 2011
This thing goes super quick. We did five roped pitches, then put it on our back and soloed the rest. Was our second route of our first day in the Meadows. Super fun time!
|By Ryan Williams|
From: London (sort of)
Sep 13, 2011
First 400 feet are very fun and the rest is just getting to the top. Still interesting though, and a good time. If you're OK on easy 5th, you can put the ropes on your backs and solo the top 400 feet or so.
We showed up at 8am and were fourth in line. We took a bottle of wine along to make the waiting a little more fun. If you and your partner are fast you should just wait until a clear afternoon, make sure there are no epics going on and then start late.
|By rex parker|
From: mammoth lakes c.a
Oct 19, 2011
climbed this on monday the 17th of october. and the first three pitches were soaking wet. 1/2 into all cracks was a stream of water. once we got up to the crecent ledge it was covered in snow. pitches 8-10 had snow all over them. the 10th pitch which claims to be a lot of 4th class is not , or we were to far left and it was solid 5-6. above that was correct. we walked of the back in the dark. stay more south then you think if you go to far right it gets scary and super unsafe at night follow the cairns and stay left and more south till you get to the ground. hard to find the signs at the bottom of lucky streaks. we just walked all the way to the base of the climb were we could see the reflective trail signs on the left.. i dont know if anybody has climbed this route this late.. but i dont recomennd it at all in october. it was freezing cold most of the day even though the forecast was 68 degrees in the high country this thing does not warm up well.
Jun 19, 2012
Send me message if you climbed this route on Saturday June 16th. I might have a picture if you. Parties 1 and 4 especially, later ones may appear small in the picture.
(I'll delete this comment at some point.)
|By trying hard|
From: East side Sierra
Jul 18, 2012
rating: 5.9 PG13
Simul climbed in three pitches. Anchor at pitch two, trade off above cresent and then to the top, 2 hours to climb.
|By Bill Lawry|
From: New Mexico
Aug 5, 2012
Signs That This May Be A Popular Climb (all seen in one day):
- a pair of climbers on a racing jog up the approach trail;
- someone trying to find the owner of a Volvo key which had been dropped on the approach trail;
- leader at top of P1 calling down instructions about how to clean gear;
- two new-ish stuck nuts left by second with no experience cleaning gear and with no nut tool;
- dropped #1 Black Diamond C4 caught by party below;
- dropped helmet camera scattered in pieces at the base;
- climber indicating while queued up that he may have left a set of alien cams back at the parking lot on the ground;
- another key found near parking lot while looking for aliens;
- twelve cars in/near the parking lot late in the morning.
|By Will Stat|
Nov 18, 2012
DO the flake variation on the pitch above crescent ledge, it's awesome!
Be prepared for the first pitch crux to be soaking wet and have lots of gooey chalk oozing out of the crux finger locks, it's not uncommon and will make the move feel like 5.10. A leader below us found out the hard way, fell, popped a cam, scraped himself up and bailed.