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Routes in Fairview Dome

Arsonist, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Captain Fairview T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Fairest of All T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Fairly Easy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Fairview Heights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Great Pumpkin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heart of Stone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Inverted Staircase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
La Bella Luna T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lizard Lieback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky Streaks T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lyme Line T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Magical Mystery Tour T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mr Toads Wild Ride T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Night Shift T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Plastic Exploding Inevitable T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A4 R
Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retrospective T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Roseanne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unh-Huh T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 1200 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Glen Denny, Wally Reed July 1962, FFA Bob Kamps, Wally Reed August 1963
Page Views: 3,020 total, 30/month
Shared By: john durr on Jul 25, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Inverted Staircase is a beautiful obvious line. The climbing is pretty good, but not great. Mostly moderate cracks with two hard pitches.

Pitch 1 & 2 climb cracks just right of the big arch, aim for an obvious small roof in a right facing corner that marks the first belay. Surmount the fun roof then moderate climbing to the corner. 5.8/5.9

Pitch 3 & 4 climb the corner above, moving onto the face midway through pitch three to avoid the chimney then head back to the corner to belay. The next pitch goes up the nice corner to the top right side of the pinnacle. 5.7/5.8

Pitch 5 is thin friction and small hold face. Go down and out right a ways to a bolt. Just past this is 5.10 face with good swing potential for your second. Ascend a loose pillar, I placed several micro-nuts here. The hard face climbing above past two bolts is well protected. 5.10b/c

Pitch 6 is usually wet midway through, but fun liebacking and unclinging is had before the wet and the corner above is stellar. Plan on aiding on a couple cams to pass the wet. 5.10-

Pitch 7 follow this route up and left aiming for a moderate thin double dihedral then belay at a small tree. 5.8

Pitch 8 with a bolt leads straight out right to a easy ramp. 5.10a briefly

Pitch 9 is a little spooky makes a traverse out right past a loose block, a dihedral 5.8 and over an easy roof to 300' of easy ground.

Location

This route is about 200 meters left, (east) of the Regular Route. Find the start by looking for an obvious roof in a right facing dihedral that marks the first belay. This is just a bit right of the huge left facing corner/arch.

To descend, walk to the top then go down the south-southwest buttress, usually marked with a couple cairns. This is steep, long and painful in rock shoes.

This route would be difficult to retreat from without leaving lots of gear.

Protection

Bring a standard rack of small stoppers through 4" cam. Emphasis 0.5-2". Micro-nuts can be useful for pitch 5. The 4" cam is pretty handy, but probably not necessary.
Yes, its a tough one compared to others of the grade. No, its not a "classic" as far as cleanliness and ease of line, but....... the route has history!!! Imagine free climbing that shit in the 60's! Yowza. For me, that wass enough to go check it out. This was the first route I did in Tuolumne with a rope.

The staircase is only wet usually in early season, as well as up to a few days after a good rain. Otherwise it will be dry. Wet just adds to the fun. It lets you get a feel for just a moment, of what it was like with no sticky rubber. Kind of lets you know.

I never thought the traverse pitch was scary for the seconder if the leader back cleans which seems easy to do safely. My idea of safety may be fuggled a bit.

Classic in the old school sense. Imagine yourself there in the old days while climbing it in the days of new. It will add a lot of enjoyment to the experience. And besides, the North side of Fairview Dome is awesome. Aug 25, 2013
Erik Gearhart
Seattle, WA
5.10b R
Erik Gearhart   Seattle, WA
5.10b R
Agree with comments above. This route is not really one for a fledgling 5.10 leader to jump on as an alternative to the Regular Route--it is a major upgrade in difficulty and risk. That one bolt friction face with the bad traverse for the second was very difficult, actually. RE: the bolts, when I did it, it had Leeper hangers (and a drilled through piton as a bolt hanger in one spot!). Glad to hear they've been replaced. I do not remember the overhanging staircase being wet--I remember awesomely fun jug pulling on that section. Aug 19, 2013
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
 
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
 
Expect some grassy and dirty cracks, a slimy inverted staircase pitch, and several no-fall-territory pitches. Bring many slings because the route wanders a lot. We brought doubles through #3 BD C4. I would bring only (1) #3 and add a few extra finger sized pieces. All the bolts on the route are in great shape courtesy of the ASCA.

The route was an adventurous experience, but i wouldn't necessarily recommend this route to a friend. Good for someone who has done all the other classics in the area.

-Aaron Jul 8, 2013
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
  5.10c PG13
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
  5.10c PG13
Fun varied route with a good dose of adventure and more dirt and grass than ideal. Expect spaced protection on many of the pitches. While the climbing is often easy when unprotected a fall could be quite long.

My partner and I were gardening out placements on many of the pitches (especially the first 5). With more traffic this could clean up nicely! We climbed it on 8/28/11 and the route was dry but in the shade until late afternoon.

Slab moves are tricky to rate. I feel something may have broken on P8 (as described above). My partner (leading) and I both took a fall on this pitch, before lowering and doing it clean. We went straight up above the bolt, on poor holds. Perhaps the late afternoon sun made it harder or we went the wrong way.

All bolts have been replaced except the one on the Inverted staircase pitch which can be backed up with a nut or small cam. Aug 31, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
 
Really nice alternate to some of the busier routes on the dome. Definately needs to be done if you are climbing 5.10 slab and undercling and are in Toulome looking for a not busy route. Jul 7, 2011