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Routes in Fairview Dome

Arsonist, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Captain Fairview T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Fairest of All T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Fairly Easy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Fairview Heights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Great Pumpkin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heart of Stone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Inverted Staircase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
La Bella Luna T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lizard Lieback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky Streaks T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lyme Line T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Magical Mystery Tour T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mr Toads Wild Ride T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Night Shift T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Plastic Exploding Inevitable T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A4 R
Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retrospective T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Roseanne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unh-Huh T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jim Pettigrew, Dave Bircheff, Bruce Hawkins 1974
Page Views: 2,964 total, 34/month
Shared By: john durr on Aug 26, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Stimulating face climbing with an important emphasis on route finding. Climbs the beautiful apron and crosses the big roof right of the Regular Route.

Pitch 1: Start on the right side of the north face apron, about where the access trail exits the forest. Head up and left following a steep 3rd class ramp to a belay at an obvious roof and right facing dihedral. This belay is shared with Wonderful Wino (5.10b R). If you choose to lead this and we did, some good small cams are available in a thin left facing corner near the end. Gear belay thin to 1" - 3rd Class or easy 5th - 200 feet.

Pitch 2: This great pitch moves up and left from the belay on large knobs, run it out about 30 feet to an obvious thin right facing corner 5.6R and jam some small to medium cams in the bottom. Continue on ever diminishing knobs left and up past 3 very hard to see bolts. 5.10a friction getting to the 3rd bolt. From the third bolt, head up and right to a hidden left facing corner more 5.10a friction. Climb the corner (5.8) and jam all the gear in it you can (tricky thin to 2"). From the top of the corner move straight left about 30-40 feet onto the slabby face and eventually the roof (whimpering 5.9R). Good 1"-3" cams for gear at roof. Lieback and stem the roof (5.8) to a huge ledge with a bolted belay. 5.10a - 200 feet - long slings/double ropes help.

Pitch 3: Climb the enjoyable grassy right facing dihedral, past an overlap, until it rolls over to become a roof. Face climb on big knobs around the right side of the roof. Immediately traverse 15 feet left on a sloping ledge directly over the roof to a nice belay at a right facing flake. Gear belay thin to 1" - 5.8 - 100 feet.

Pitch 4: Traverse straight left 30 feet on a sloping slabby ledge to a vertical thin crack 5.8. There is no gear on the traverse but the hardest move is the first. Place small TCU's and small stoppers and climb the thin crack 20 feet to a good fixed stopper and pin 5.9. Follow this crack up and left to the roof (5.10a) and lieback a finger crack over the roof at a large left facing dihedral. Once above the roof, follow the dihedral with a finger crack 20 feet, the right arete is super knobby and useful here (5.7). Place gear and climb around the arete to the face, up and right 20 feet on good knobs to a thin seam for gear (5.8R). Step down and right to grassy belay area. Gear belay thin to 3" - 5.10a - 100 feet.

Pitch 5: Follow the excellent grassy finger crack - left facing dihedral above for 200 feet to a large ledge at the base of the 5.6 ramp pitch of the Regular Route. Gear belay thin to 3" - Sustained 5.8 - 200 feet.

Follow the Regular Route (5.7) or Wonderful Wino (5.8) for three pitches and scrambling to the top.

Location

Located on the north face of Fairview Dome, about 400 feet west (right) of the Regular Route. Start on the west (right) side of the north face apron, almost exactly where the lower access trail exits the forest. From the top of this route, follow the upper half of the Regular Route (5.7) or Wonderful Wino (5.8). Descend from top via the normal south ridge walk off.

Protection

Standard rack to 3", extra thin to 1", a few longer slings. Double ropes recommended but not necessary. All 5 protection and belay bolts are modern thanks to ASCA.
John Scott  
 
Fun route. Harder than 10a, but passes the roof more easily than it looks. Description here is good. Falkenstein topo is not accurate.
Wonderful Wino is a good linkup but beware the loose flakes. Jun 21, 2015
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a PG13
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10a PG13
The route description here is excellent and helps you find the line very well. Too bad this does not get more ascents so it would clean up a bit. The second pitch is a great and interesting pitch - the downside being that to climb above the last bolt you are over your rope and it will flip you over/burn the back of your leg if you fall at this crux - which is definatly harder than 10a I think. Tricky gear too. Sep 22, 2013