Type: Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jim Pettigrew, Dave Bircheff, Bruce Hawkins 1974
Page Views: 3,466 total · 32/month
Shared By: john durr on Aug 26, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Stimulating face climbing with an important emphasis on route finding. Climbs the beautiful apron and crosses the big roof right of the Regular Route.

Pitch 1: Start on the right side of the north face apron, about where the access trail exits the forest. Head up and left following a steep 3rd class ramp to a belay at an obvious roof and right facing dihedral. This belay is shared with Wonderful Wino (5.10b R). If you choose to lead this and we did, some good small cams are available in a thin left facing corner near the end. Gear belay thin to 1" - 3rd Class or easy 5th - 200 feet.

Pitch 2: This great pitch moves up and left from the belay on large knobs, run it out about 30 feet to an obvious thin right facing corner 5.6R and jam some small to medium cams in the bottom. Continue on ever diminishing knobs left and up past 3 very hard to see bolts. 5.10a friction getting to the 3rd bolt. From the third bolt, head up and right to a hidden left facing corner more 5.10a friction. Climb the corner (5.8) and jam all the gear in it you can (tricky thin to 2"). From the top of the corner move straight left about 30-40 feet onto the slabby face and eventually the roof (whimpering 5.9R). Good 1"-3" cams for gear at roof. Lieback and stem the roof (5.8) to a huge ledge with a bolted belay. 5.10a - 200 feet - long slings/double ropes help.

Pitch 3: Climb the enjoyable grassy right facing dihedral, past an overlap, until it rolls over to become a roof. Face climb on big knobs around the right side of the roof. Immediately traverse 15 feet left on a sloping ledge directly over the roof to a nice belay at a right facing flake. Gear belay thin to 1" - 5.8 - 100 feet.

Pitch 4: Traverse straight left 30 feet on a sloping slabby ledge to a vertical thin crack 5.8. There is no gear on the traverse but the hardest move is the first. Place small TCU's and small stoppers and climb the thin crack 20 feet to a good fixed stopper and pin 5.9. Follow this crack up and left to the roof (5.10a) and lieback a finger crack over the roof at a large left facing dihedral. Once above the roof, follow the dihedral with a finger crack 20 feet, the right arete is super knobby and useful here (5.7). Place gear and climb around the arete to the face, up and right 20 feet on good knobs to a thin seam for gear (5.8R). Step down and right to grassy belay area. Gear belay thin to 3" - 5.10a - 100 feet.

Pitch 5: Follow the excellent grassy finger crack - left facing dihedral above for 200 feet to a large ledge at the base of the 5.6 ramp pitch of the Regular Route. Gear belay thin to 3" - Sustained 5.8 - 200 feet.

Follow the Regular Route (5.7) or Wonderful Wino (5.8) for three pitches and scrambling to the top.

Location

Located on the north face of Fairview Dome, about 400 feet west (right) of the Regular Route. Start on the west (right) side of the north face apron, almost exactly where the lower access trail exits the forest. From the top of this route, follow the upper half of the Regular Route (5.7) or Wonderful Wino (5.8). Descend from top via the normal south ridge walk off.

Protection

Standard rack to 3", extra thin to 1", a few longer slings. Double ropes recommended but not necessary. All 5 protection and belay bolts are modern thanks to ASCA.

Photos