5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Bob Jensen, Erik Anderson|
|Page Views:||6,972 total · 54/month|
|Shared By:||Cassidy Anderson on Aug 9, 2012|
|Admins:||Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
***Warning: Beta/Gear Spoilers***
Pitch 1: Climb up slabs left of Burning down the house to a left facing boot feature. Head up and right past a bolt, belay under the roof.
Pitch 2: Traverse right under roof to a place where a mantle is possible, after the mantle clip a bolt and traverse back left to another bolt protected slab move followed by fun gear protected face climbing. Utilize long runners to reduce/eleminate any rope drag. Belay on ledge, left of the tree.
Pitch 3: Walk right on ledge to a bolt. Continue up the right facing feature to another bolt. Easy climbing gains the base of the arch. Follow the 5.11 bolt line through some dime edges then head left below the roof, to a single bolt/gear belay.
Note:You can also head up and left at the arch for 5.9R old school adventure climbing.(Watch out for the Death blocks!)
Pitch 4: The Fantasy Funland- Head up and left to first bolt. Then climb into a fantastic stemming corner which leads to a gear protected roof. Easier climbing takes you past a bolt to a second bolt where the wall steepens. Use a crucial knob to gain the slab above.One more bolt protects the climbing to the belay ledge.
Pitch 5: The Burning Arches- This pitch begins at the base of a huge granite shield. Climb past seven bolts filled with smeary slab goodness, until another ledge is reached.
Pitch 6: The Burning Arches- Tighten your shoes up and get ready! Six bolts of technical smearing and edging puts you on a ledge below the last roof of the route. Once through the roof clip your last bolt and get those TCU's ready. Several fun Bouldery mantles await protected by bomber gear in horizontals. After the last mantle Pull up in to a left facing crack with a small tree.Follow this crack up right to a belay ledge.
One or two more pitches of easy to moderate climbing will gain the summit head right to join Burning Down The House/Lyme Line or Left