Type: Trad, 900 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bob Jensen, Erik Anderson
Page Views: 4,117 total · 51/month
Shared By: Cassidy Anderson on Aug 9, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb up slabs left of Burning down the house to a left facing boot feature. Head up and right past a bolt, belay under the roof.

Pitch 2: Traverse right under roof to a place where a mantle is possible, after the mantle clip a bolt and traverse back left to another bolt protected slab move followed by fun gear protected face climbing. Utilize long runners to reduce/eleminate any rope drag. Belay on ledge, left of the tree.

Pitch 3: Walk right on ledge to a bolt. Continue up the right facing feature to another bolt. Easy climbing gains the base of the arch. Follow the 5.11 bolt line through some dime edges then head left below the roof, to a single bolt/gear belay.
Note:You can also head up and left at the arch for 5.9R old school adventure climbing.(Watch out for the Death blocks!)

Pitch 4: The Fantasy Funland- Head up and left to first bolt. Then climb into a fantastic stemming corner which leads to a gear protected roof. Easier climbing takes you past a bolt to a second bolt where the wall steepens. Use a crucial knob to gain the slab above.One more bolt protects the climbing to the belay ledge.

Pitch 5: The Burning Arches- This pitch begins at the base of a huge granite shield. Climb past seven bolts filled with smeary slab goodness, until another ledge is reached.

Pitch 6: The Burning Arches- Tighten your shoes up and get ready! Six bolts of technical smearing and edging puts you on a ledge below the last roof of the route. Once through the roof clip your last bolt and get those TCU's ready. Several fun Bouldery mantles await protected by bomber gear in horizontals. After the last mantle Pull up in to a left facing crack with a small tree.Follow this crack up right to a belay ledge.

One or two more pitches of easy to moderate climbing will gain the summit head right to join Burning Down The House/Lyme Line or Left

Location

Far left Side of Fairview Dome between Burning Down The House and Always Arches. Head for a feature that resembles a left facing boot below the apex of the arch.

Protection

Doubles from Blue to red aliens (0-.5 camalots)
Single 00, .75-2 Camalots
1 Set small nuts
7 Extendable draws
2 Doubles for roofs

Anchors
P1 gear
P2 Bolts
P3 Bolt/gear
P4-6 Bolts
Cassidy Anderson
San Diego, CA
  5.11
Cassidy Anderson   San Diego, CA
  5.11
supertopo.com/tr/1st-Ascent…


Here is a link to a trip report by Bob Jensen. Mar 4, 2013
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
Just a note to the FA team - amazing job and killer Trip Report. Jun 14, 2013
alix morris
Estes Park, CO
alix morris   Estes Park, CO
Did this last week! Really quality line and HARD. Full-value 5.11 that doesn't let up and even the easier sections are hard. Although well-protected by Fairview standards, there are still some heads up sections where you can take an ankle banger.

Get on it!! High quality micro-edging. Jul 11, 2015