Type: Trad, 900 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: FFA Bob Jensen/Corey Flynn ( FA Sean Kriletich/Bob J. @12a A0)
Page Views: 2,152 total · 26/month
Shared By: bob jensen on Apr 15, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Do first five pitches of Captain Fairview and then ....

Pitch 1: From the belay at base of headwall on Captain Fairview head more or less straight up with gear until a line of bolts is reached. Dice your way past bolts until it opens up to 5.11 terrain. Keep hustling, but not too fast! So thin. Belay at 2 bolts 12c-ish?

Pitch 2: Up from belay clipping a bolt then up to small flake with TCU placement. Continue up past more bolts eventually reaching L facing corner. Climb flake/corner until ledge is reached and set up belay.

Pitch 3: follow "Burning Down the House" last 5.7 pitch. Its a short L facing corner. Ends on big ledge with dwarfed trees.

Smoke up Johnny!!!!!!!!

Location

Start up Captain Fairview and head straight up once headwall is reached.
Walk off like all other routes.

Protection

Same rack as for Captain Fairview

Photos

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