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Routes in Fairview Dome

Arsonist, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Captain Fairview T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Fairest of All T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Fairly Easy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Fairview Heights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Great Pumpkin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heart of Stone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Inverted Staircase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
La Bella Luna T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lizard Lieback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky Streaks T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lyme Line T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Magical Mystery Tour T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mr Toads Wild Ride T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Night Shift T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Plastic Exploding Inevitable T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A4 R
Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retrospective T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Roseanne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unh-Huh T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bob Jensen/Sean Kriletich
Page Views: 1,291 total · 43/month
Shared By: bob jensen on Sep 9, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Pitch 1. Start up Powell Route corner and cut out right almost immediately passing two bolts to a roof. Over roof passing three more bolts to an anchor ledge. Gear high and right for anchor. 5.9

Pitch 2. Climb the crack right of Powell corner.( may actually be Powell route) Savor the heirloom variety. 5.8

Pitch 3. Start up the left crack until a weakness allows fairly moderate passage to the right crack. Balance/power your way up past small nuts and a bolt. Gain Separation Anxiety dike and clip another bolt. Head up to a two bolt belay. 5.11

Pitch 4. Head up and left passing two bolts. It's a bit run to the first bolt, but it's easy. Pass through roof then face climb past three bolts to a two bolt anchor. 10b

Pitch 5. The transition pitch. Climb crack above anchor until one can mantle into the scoop out left. Follow scoop until right leaning grassy corner is reached. Climb this corner ten or so feet until two bolts lead left across face. Gain crack after passing bolts and surmount a roof above on the right. Then follow left arching crack through the top of the inverted stairs on Inverted Staircase, passing left until a two bolt semi-hanging belay is reached. 10a

Pitch 6. The Crack Quest looms above. Climb crack just right of belay. Keep connecting them. After making it to the fourth crack one may consider going around right to Inverted Staircase. DON'T! As the leader you will already have done any heady business. Take the left leaner to the two bolt anchor. It's airy, heirloomy, protects great, and is pretty dang 5.9ish. Really.
Long, fun pitch. The pro and holds/jams keep coming. 10d

Pitch 7. Head more or less straight up passing 5 bolts. Cut right to ledge after last bolt. Build gear anchor in bush above. This pitch is a bit friable. A little time will heal. 10d/11a

Pitch 8. Follow ledge system left until the last bolted,pitch is reached. It happens to be the apex of the ledge system. 5.6

Pitch 9. Climb past 5 bolts and a bit of gear if wanted. 10a/b

You have finished the route. Good on ya'll!!!

Location

Approximately 34.5 feet off the road the route starts on first 20 feet of The Powell Route. Spot two bolts to the right on slab heading to a left arching roof. See pics.

Protection

Doubles micro to wide fingers/thin hands. Single 1,2,3 camalots. Solid set of micro and offset nuts. A set of offset aliens was nice. That or triple up on small to fingers.

Photos

karl kvashay
cedar city, utah
karl kvashay   cedar city, utah
Wowsa! Sep 10, 2015

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