Prototype  5.10b/c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Scott and Jean Hudson Submitted By:  Steve Marr on Nov 12, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Shaking out on one of the many good rests on Proto...

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Description 

One of the best 5.10 climbs at Reimer's. Prototype is the right most of two lines that share the first bolt (the other is Mas Cerveza, 5.11) just to the right of the shallow dihedral at the base of Clone Call. The start overhangs a little - pull up onto a bulge using a good flake. Be sure to clip the first bolt before making any moves up the bulge or you could deck if you slipped. Look for a good two finger pocket with the right hand while you pinch with the left. Pull through the bulge to a good stance (crux). The middle part of the climb is thin, but has plenty of rests. Look for a great hold at the last bolt (a "squirrel cage"). The second difficulty on the route is moving from the last bolt to the chains. There are some small edges, and good finger pocket just below the top.

Protection 

Five bolts to anchors.