| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
| GPS: | 35.20139, -106.44591 |
| FA: | Kathy Kocon and Mark Leonard |
| Page Views: | 2,792 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Beguin on Sep 4, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
Approach as for rappelling to Yucca Flower Tower. See directions there for finding the rap station for Aces and Eights.
Rap 180 feet to a small ledge, and build a belay. If you instead end the rap lower at a dirt stance in the gully itself, this can add about 20 feet of stiff climbing just left of the gully where pro may be scant (we only top roped).
Assuming a higher stop than the dirt spot in the gully, the route starts up a moderate left facing dihedral with a hand crack and a few face moves here and there with good movement qualities on the entire climb. It is a little dirty and loose in a few spots, but it is worth doing. The crux is about 2/3 of the way up and the grade remains consistent for the entire route.
Location
The 2 bolt chained anchor for this route is located about 15 yards south of The Great Escape anchors.



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