This photo gives some sense of scale to the "...
The middle peak of the Rabbit Ears group. The west face has some beautiful lines, and there is hard-route potential on the north side where a steep series of roofs dubbed the ChurchKey is found. You're not likely to run into other climbers up here, but you will find great 3-4 pitch routes. If you time your ascent right, you can climb in either the sun or shade. Even in July, you can comfortably climb here, although the approach/descent begin to get stifling.
Approach can be made from either side of the range (Starting from the Aguirre Springs parking or from the Topp Hut). The typical approach is to come from the Topp Hut. Hike into Rabbit Ears Canyon, past The Citadel
. Continue up the canyon, staying in or near the stream bed which is usually dry. Eventually, there will be a lesser-gully that branches off to the left directly up towards the North and Middle Rabbit ears. Follow an indistinct trail in this gully and next to it on its south side. It leads roughly to the base of the West Face
of the Middle Rabbit Ear.
The descent route is off the south side. Scramble down to a large tree, with several old slings and a wire-cable around it. A two-rope rappel gains a large tree-filled ledge. There is also an old belay station consisting of two old 1/4" bolts which allows you to gain the ledge with two single-rope rappels. Walk to the far west side of the ledge where a chain anchor is found. A single-rope rappel reaches the ground.
The descent route roughly follows the Normal Route (South Corner)
Weather station 11.2 miles from here
10 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Middle Rabbit Ear
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Rabbit Ear:
West Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 6 pitches, 750'
Featured Route For Middle Rabbit Ear
West Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b NM
: Organ Mountains
: ... : Middle Rabbit Ear
Depending on your level of comfort, you can scramble fairy high up the skirts of the west face, but it likely won’t change the location of Pitch 1 belay. P1: Looking up, locate an obvious buttress in lower part of the face. Pitch 1 belay will be on top of it. Notice a horizontal shelf going left from the foot of the buttress. Head up the slabby terrain toward the left end of this shelf, climb up onto it, and traverse right to the base of the buttress. (Do not get seduced by the corner on the lef...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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Ross Allen on the rappel off the old 1/4" bol...
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Ross Allen at the second bolt of an unknown route ...
BETA PHOTO: Middle Rabbit Ear South Face
By Robert Cort
Apr 24, 2011
The approach from the east can be made by starting on the Baylor Pass trail, then following a cairned route up a steepening ridge, eventually entering and scrambling up the gully that tumbles down from the MRE/SRE col. The cairns help avoid most of the brush, by weaving up the ridge. Once in the gully, expect class 3 scrambling w/ a few class 4 moves. If you get in the gully too soon on the way up, or stay too late on the way down, you can expect a serious Organ Mountain Bushwhack. Follow the cairns, and it's surprisingly nice.