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Middle Rabbit Ear

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Church Key T 
East Ridge T 
Great Expectations T 
Gubbins T 
Normal Route (South Corner) T 
North Face Gullies T 
South Face Central T 
South Face Cutoff T 
Three's the Charm T 
West Face T 

Middle Rabbit Ear 


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Location: 32.3685, -106.5772 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,728
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Aug 7, 2007
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This photo gives some sense of scale to the "Churc...

Description 

The middle peak of the Rabbit Ears group. The west face has some beautiful lines, and there is hard-route potential on the north side where a steep series of roofs dubbed the ChurchKey is found. You're not likely to run into other climbers up here, but you will find great 3-4 pitch routes. If you time your ascent right, you can climb in either the sun or shade. Even in July, you can comfortably climb here, although the approach/descent begin to get stifling.


Getting There 

Approach can be made from either side of the range (Starting from the Aguirre Springs parking or from the Topp Hut). The typical approach is to come from the Topp Hut. Hike into Rabbit Ears Canyon, past The Citadel. Continue up the canyon, staying in or near the stream bed which is usually dry. Eventually, there will be a lesser-gully that branches off to the left directly up towards the North and Middle Rabbit ears. Follow an indistinct trail in this gully and next to it on its south side. It leads roughly to the base of the West Face of the Middle Rabbit Ear.


Descent 

The descent route is off the south side. Scramble down to a large tree, with several old slings and a wire-cable around it. A two-rope rappel gains a large tree-filled ledge. There is also an old belay station consisting of two old 1/4" bolts which allows you to gain the ledge with two single-rope rappels. Walk to the far west side of the ledge where a chain anchor is found. A single-rope rappel reaches the ground.

The descent route roughly follows the Normal Route (South Corner).


Climbing Season


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',3],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Rabbit Ear:
West Face   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 750'   
Browse More Classics in Middle Rabbit Ear

Featured Route For Middle Rabbit Ear
The route takes the left side of the two prominent left-facing corner systems.

West Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  NM : Organ Mountains : ... : Middle Rabbit Ear
You can't help but stare at this route as you approach the Middle Rabbit Ear from Rabbit Ears Canyon. The route follows a nearly direct ascent of the North Side of the West face, folloiwng a path of least resistance up corners, face climbing and slab.Scramble up to a nice belay ledge about 50 ft above the canyon floor. This is 4th class, and there are multiple good places to belay from. The first pitch aims for a large left facing corner system. A few harder variations can be found getting into ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Middle Rabbit Ear Slideshow Add Photo
Ross Allen on the rappel off the old 1/4" bolts
Ross Allen on the rappel off the old 1/4" bolts
Scott Jones sweating out the descent hike after climbing the Middle Rabbit ear (directly behind him).
Scott Jones sweating out the descent hike after cl...
Ross Allen at the second bolt of an unknown route on the SW face of MRE.
Ross Allen at the second bolt of an unknown route ...
Middle Rabbit Ear South Face
BETA PHOTO: Middle Rabbit Ear South Face
Comments on Middle Rabbit Ear Add Comment
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By Robert Cort
Apr 24, 2011

The approach from the east can be made by starting on the Baylor Pass trail, then following a cairned route up a steepening ridge, eventually entering and scrambling up the gully that tumbles down from the MRE/SRE col. The cairns help avoid most of the brush, by weaving up the ridge. Once in the gully, expect class 3 scrambling w/ a few class 4 moves. If you get in the gully too soon on the way up, or stay too late on the way down, you can expect a serious Organ Mountain Bushwhack. Follow the cairns, and it's surprisingly nice.