Middle Rabbit Ear Rock Climbing
Scott Jones sweating out the descent hike after cl...
The middle peak of the Rabbit Ears group. The west face has some beautiful lines, and there is hard-route potential on the north side where a steep series of roofs dubbed the ChurchKey is found. You're not likely to run into other climbers up here, but you will find great 3-4 pitch routes. If you time your ascent right, you can climb in either the sun or shade. Even in July, you can comfortably climb here, although the approach/descent begin to get stifling.
Approach can be made from either side of the range (Starting from the Aguirre Springs parking or from the Topp Hut). The typical approach is to come from the Topp Hut. Hike into Rabbit Ears Canyon, past The Citadel
. Continue up the canyon, staying in or near the stream bed which is usually dry. Eventually, there will be a lesser-gully that branches off to the left directly up towards the North and Middle Rabbit ears. Follow an indistinct trail in this gully and next to it on its south side. It leads roughly to the base of the West Face
of the Middle Rabbit Ear.
The descent route is off the south side. Scramble down to a large tree, with several old slings and a wire-cable around it. A two-rope rappel gains a large tree-filled ledge. There is also an old belay station consisting of two old 1/4" bolts which allows you to gain the ledge with two single-rope rappels. Walk to the far west side of the ledge where a chain anchor is found. A single-rope rappel reaches the ground.
The descent route roughly follows the Normal Route (South Corner)
Climbing Season For the Rabbit Ears Area area.
Weather station 11.2 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Rabbit Ear
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Middle Rabbit Ear
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Rabbit Ear:
West Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 6 pitches, 700'
Featured Route For Middle Rabbit Ear
Normal Route (South Corner) 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b NM
: Organ Mountains
: ... : Middle Rabbit Ear
This route is probably the simplest way to summit the Middle Rabbit Ear, and follows the descent route pretty closely. While the climbing isn't all that spectacular, the fact that it was originally done in 1946 gives you some respect for the route.The first pitch goes up an easy corner for about 25 ft to an old 1/4" bolt. Step right on a few slab moves past the bolt (5.5) and continue up the easy corner to tree at the base of a 30ft high corner crack. The corner crack is roughly fist sized and t...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
BETA PHOTO: Middle Rabbit Ear South Face
Ross Allen on the rappel off the old 1/4" bol...
This photo gives some sense of scale to the "...
Ross Allen at the second bolt of an unknown route ...
The South Face rappel off of the big tree. Tat nes...
By Robert Cort
Apr 24, 2011
The approach from the east can be made by starting on the Baylor Pass trail, then following a cairned route up a steepening ridge, eventually entering and scrambling up the gully that tumbles down from the MRE/SRE col. The cairns help avoid most of the brush, by weaving up the ridge. Once in the gully, expect class 3 scrambling w/ a few class 4 moves. If you get in the gully too soon on the way up, or stay too late on the way down, you can expect a serious Organ Mountain Bushwhack. Follow the cairns, and it's surprisingly nice.