Middle Rabbit Ear  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  32.3685, -106.5772 Map Page Views:  1,862. Good page?    Administrators:  Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Aaron Hobson on Aug 7, 2007 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun 102° | 75° 100° | 68° 100° | 72° 100° | 70° 99° | 70°

Scott Jones sweating out the descent hike after cl...

Description 

The middle peak of the Rabbit Ears group. The west face has some beautiful lines, and there is hard-route potential on the north side where a steep series of roofs dubbed the ChurchKey is found. You're not likely to run into other climbers up here, but you will find great 3-4 pitch routes. If you time your ascent right, you can climb in either the sun or shade. Even in July, you can comfortably climb here, although the approach/descent begin to get stifling.

Getting There 

Approach can be made from either side of the range (Starting from the Aguirre Springs parking or from the Topp-Hut). the typical approach is to come from the Topp Hut. Hike into Rabbit ears canyon, past The Citadel and Lambda Wall. Continue up the canyon, staying in or near the stream-bed which is usually dry. Eventually, there will be a lesser-gully that branches off to the left directly up towards the North and Middle Rabbit ears. Follow an indistinct trail next to this gully which leads roughly to the base of the Northwest face of the Middle Rabbit Ear.

Descent 

The descent route is off the south side. Scramble down to a large tree, with several old slings and a wire-cable around it. A two-rope rappel gains a large tree-filled ledge. There is also an old belay station consisting of two old 1/4" bolts which allows you to gain the ledge with two single-rope rappels. Walk to the far west side of the ledge where a chain anchor is found. A single-rope rappel reaches the ground.

The descent route roughly follows the Normal Route (South Corner).

The Classics

Featured Route For Middle Rabbit Ear

West Face 5.7  NM : Organ Mountains : Middle Rabbit Ear

You can't help but stare at this route as you approach the Middle Rabbit Ear from Rabbit Ears Canyon. The route follows a nearly direct ascent of the North Side of the West face, folloiwng a path of least resistance up corners, face climbing and slab.Scramble up to a nice belay ledge about 50 ft above the canyon floor. This is 4th class, and there are multiple good places to belay from. The first pitch aims for a large left facing corner system. A few harder variations can be found getting into ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

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Ross Allen on the rappel off the old 1/4" bolts	Ross Allen at the second bolt of an unknown route ...	BETA PHOTO: Middle Rabbit Ear South Face
This photo gives some sense of scale to the "Churc...