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Magic Bus
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blonde Dwarf 
Electric Koolaid 
Ken Queasy 
Neon Sunset 
Queasy Sunrise 
Technicolor Sunrise 
Zipperhead 

Magic Bus 


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Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 16, 2004

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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BETA PHOTO: The Magic Bus viewed from the Second Pullout parki...

Description 

The Magic Bus is a gigantic boulder directly across from the parking lot at the second pullout. The routes range from 5.8 to 5.10-. This is a popular area for people just beginning to lead.

[Reprinted with permission from Jed Botsford, Climbing Ranger - RRCNCA].


Getting There 

To approach the Magic Bus, follow the trail from the parking lot until it forks, take the right fork and then take the next left following the trail to the wash. Walk up canyon for about 50 yards. Turn up the second side canyon to your right. Follow the side canyon up until it tops out and then continue up the slabs. When you reach the top of the slabs, the Magic Bus will be to your right.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Magic Bus:
Neon Sunset   5.8     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Technicolor Sunrise   5.8 PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Queasy Sunrise   5.9+     Sport, 60 feet   
Electric Koolaid   5.9+     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Browse More Classics in Magic Bus

Featured Route For Magic Bus
Climbers on Neon Sunset (left) and Technicolor Sunrise (right).  Zipperhead starts on the thin crack between these routes.

Neon Sunset 5.8  NV : Red Rock : ... : Magic Bus
This route is the central route up the wall - the second from the left of the fully bolted lines at Magic Bus. Despite the fact that I generally enjoy trad routes more, I found this to be one of the better lines at the cliff, despite being a little over-bolted. Unlike a few of its neighbors, the line is continuous and straight--aesthetic and nice. Perhaps one of the good reasons to hit this cliff on a winter morning. It's also a good warm up.Climb up the bolted line passing 9 bolts to the anchor...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV


Photos of Magic Bus Slideshow Add Photo
Second Pullout Overview

BETA PHOTO: Second Pullout Overview

Magic Bus

BETA PHOTO: Magic Bus

the magic bus on a busy day

the magic bus on a busy day

The View out from the Magic Bus crag in Red Rocks on a winter's day. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.

The View out from the Magic Bus crag in Red Rocks ...

Scale is an interesting thing that, without human presence as a relative measure, can be quite ambiguous. Magic Bus from as viewed from the Second Pullout.

Scale is an interesting thing that, without human ...

Magic Bus behind native Mojave yucca (Yucca shidigera).

Magic Bus behind native Mojave yucca (Yucca shidig...

My wife Nicole on the steep approach below the Magic Bus...

My wife Nicole on the steep approach below the Mag...

Enjoying the Magic Bus in December.

Enjoying the Magic Bus in December.

E-man bouldering at the Magic Bus.

E-man bouldering at the Magic Bus.

Andy enjoying a ride on the Magic Bus

Andy enjoying a ride on the Magic Bus

Magic Bus.  October 2010.

Magic Bus. October 2010.

Climbers on Neon Sunset (center) and Electric Koolaid (right).

Climbers on Neon Sunset (center) and Electric Kool...

Magic Bus

Magic Bus


Comments on Magic Bus Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 20, 2004

The day I went to magic Bus was a cold and early winter morning. The sun was on the cliff pretty strongly, and the light and scenery from there were awesome, particularly of the sun shining down on the low clouds and snow hanging in the tall walls across the valley. Remarkably, we had the cliff to ourselves and found it to be a great place to go warm up for our Red Rocks vacation, climbing all of the routes there in just a few hours. It's a good 1/2 day wall.

By Woody Stark
Apr 17, 2004

I believe "Electric Koolaid" has the only correct rating on this face. The rest should be dropped a point. I've been there twice and very much enjoyed it. It's a good place to spend a cold and windy day; it may be crowded though.

By Casey Flynn
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2007

We also felt that the ratings were a bit soft here, but still fun

By gilbert.2003
From: Burke, VA
Apr 15, 2007

Climbed the three sport 5.8s. Not one of which was a true rating. I agree that all three should be dropped to 5.7s. However, they are fun climbs with bomber holds.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 4, 2010

On 3/3/10- the LVCLC with help from the ASCA replaced 23 pro bolts and 8 anchor bolts, and equipped all the new anchors with mussy hooks. See individual routes for details.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 13, 2011

This is a very nice crag, and Im kind of bummed I hadnt been here before to climb. All the routes are good fun with fun movement. The lot are better than anything at the grade at Panty Wall or the Corridor...