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Magic Bus

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blonde Dwarf T,TR 
Electric Koolaid S,TR 
Ken Queasy T,S 
Neon Sunset T,S 
Queasy Sunrise S 
Technicolor Sunrise T,S 
Zipperhead T 

Magic Bus Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.15337, -115.43547 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,920
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 16, 2004
Forecast:
Overnight

53°
Monday

72° | 55°
Tuesday

80° | 60°
Wednesday

84° | 59°
Thursday

77° | 55°
Friday

69° | 52°
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BETA PHOTO: Routes at Magic Bus. First Bolts Circled. Cheers (...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Magic Bus is a gigantic boulder directly across from the parking lot at the second pullout. The routes range from 5.8 to 5.10-. This is a popular area for people just beginning to lead.

[Reprinted with permission from Jed Botsford, Climbing Ranger - RRCNCA].


Getting There 

To approach the Magic Bus, follow the trail from the parking lot until it forks, take the right fork and then take the next left following the trail to the wash. Walk up canyon for about 50 yards. Turn up the second side canyon to your right. Follow the side canyon up until it tops out and then continue up the slabs. When you reach the top of the slabs, the Magic Bus will be to your right.


Climbing Season



Weather station 1.0 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',4],['5.9',3],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Magic Bus

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Magic Bus:
Neon Sunset   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Technicolor Sunrise   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Blonde Dwarf   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Electric Koolaid   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Queasy Sunrise   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Magic Bus

Featured Route For Magic Bus
Rock Climbing Photo: Elaine eyeing the crux.

Blonde Dwarf 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13  NV : Red Rock : ... : Magic Bus
This route climbs the obvious crack starting near the left hand edge of the Magic Bus wall. The gear at the bottom might be a little tricky to place, but seemed OK to me. Like it's neighbor, there is nothing really wrong with the route, but it's broken nature (not a singular line) makes it not quite as good as others on the cliff, having rock of less quality and being a little shorter.Climb up the crack up and right to the face, then up and left on the face past two bolts to a fixed rap anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of Magic Bus Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Scale is an interesting thing that, without human ...
Scale is an interesting thing that, without human ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Second Pullout Overview
BETA PHOTO: Second Pullout Overview
Rock Climbing Photo: Magic Bus
BETA PHOTO: Magic Bus
Rock Climbing Photo: E-man bouldering at the Magic Bus.
E-man bouldering at the Magic Bus.
Rock Climbing Photo: My wife Nicole on the steep approach below the Mag...
My wife Nicole on the steep approach below the Mag...
Rock Climbing Photo: Magic Bus.  October 2010.
Magic Bus. October 2010.
Rock Climbing Photo: the magic bus on a busy day
the magic bus on a busy day
Rock Climbing Photo: The View out from the Magic Bus crag in Red Rocks ...
The View out from the Magic Bus crag in Red Rocks ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the Magic Bus in December.
Enjoying the Magic Bus in December.
Rock Climbing Photo: Magic Bus
Magic Bus
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy enjoying a ride on the Magic Bus
Andy enjoying a ride on the Magic Bus
Rock Climbing Photo: The Magic Bus viewed from the Second Pullout parki...
BETA PHOTO: The Magic Bus viewed from the Second Pullout parki...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on Neon Sunset (center) and Electric Kool...
Climbers on Neon Sunset (center) and Electric Kool...
Rock Climbing Photo: Magic Bus behind native Mojave yucca (Yucca shidig...
Magic Bus behind native Mojave yucca (Yucca shidig...
Rock Climbing Photo: Magic Bus approach from the west, Meister's Edge i...
BETA PHOTO: Magic Bus approach from the west, Meister's Edge i...

Comments on Magic Bus Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 20, 2004
The day I went to magic Bus was a cold and early winter morning. The sun was on the cliff pretty strongly, and the light and scenery from there were awesome, particularly of the sun shining down on the low clouds and snow hanging in the tall walls across the valley. Remarkably, we had the cliff to ourselves and found it to be a great place to go warm up for our Red Rocks vacation, climbing all of the routes there in just a few hours. It's a good 1/2 day wall.
By Woody Stark
Apr 17, 2004
I believe "Electric Koolaid" has the only correct rating on this face. The rest should be dropped a point. I've been there twice and very much enjoyed it. It's a good place to spend a cold and windy day; it may be crowded though.
By Casey Flynn
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2007
We also felt that the ratings were a bit soft here, but still fun
By gilbert.2003
From: Burke, VA
Apr 15, 2007
Climbed the three sport 5.8s. Not one of which was a true rating. I agree that all three should be dropped to 5.7s. However, they are fun climbs with bomber holds.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 4, 2010
On 3/3/10- the LVCLC with help from the ASCA replaced 23 pro bolts and 8 anchor bolts, and equipped all the new anchors with mussy hooks. See individual routes for details.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 13, 2011
This is a very nice crag, and Im kind of bummed I hadnt been here before to climb. All the routes are good fun with fun movement. The lot are better than anything at the grade at Panty Wall or the Corridor...
By Nicholas Gillman
From: Las Vegas
Oct 11, 2015
Added a high res beta photo / topo (at the max resolution MP allows). Cheers.

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