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The Magic Bus is a gigantic boulder directly across from the parking lot at the second pullout. The routes range from 5.8 to 5.10-. This is a popular area for people just beginning to lead.
To approach the Magic Bus, follow the trail from the parking lot until it forks, take the right fork and then take the next left following the trail to the wash. Walk up canyon for about 50 yards. Turn up the second side canyon to your right. Follow the side canyon up until it tops out and then continue up the slabs. When you reach the top of the slabs, the Magic Bus will be to your right.
7 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Magic Bus
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Magic Bus:
Neon Sunset 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Technicolor Sunrise 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Blonde Dwarf 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Queasy Sunrise 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Sport, 60'
Electric Koolaid 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Magic Bus
Ken Queasy 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13 NV : Red Rock : ... : Magic Bus
Go to the far right side of the Magic Bus Crag. This climb starts some small distance left of the right-hand end, in some dark, chunky rock.Climb up an awkward start (perhaps 5.9?) and reach the first bolt. Then up and to a second bolt before angling up and left to join Technicolor Sunrise, clipping the final bolt and anchors of that route. The line is note as nice nor as continuous as the others at the cliff, and felt awkward at the bottom.Like its neighbor, the Swain book suggests that a TCU o...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
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