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All Locations >
California
> Eastern Sierra
> Bishop Area
> Owens River Gorge
> Inner Gorge
> Eldorado Roof
Looney Binge
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.9 from 41
votes
Routes in Eldorado Roof
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Billion Million S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Brewtalized S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Chongin' in the Hood S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Civilized S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cowering S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Disco Inferno S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Downward Spiral S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Flakenstein S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Freddie Flores S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gape Index S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Godzilla Does the Dizzy Tango S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Letter Bomb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Longest Yard S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Looney Binge S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Looney Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Looney Tunes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Maximus Cauldron S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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More Handsome than Honnold S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Motivated Slacker S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Proctology Exam S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Shortest Yard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Slacker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sniveling S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Super Sneaky S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Towering Inferno S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Worm Rig, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 150 ft (45 m) |
| GPS: | 37.51898, -118.57187 |
| FA: | Alf, Marty Lewis, Jeff Schoen, Huey Wilson & Raleigh Collins, 10/91 |
| Page Views: | 25,028 total · 120/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Oct 21, 2008 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
Looney Binge is an absolutely classic endurance testpiece on the underside of the Eldorado Roof. It is way less thuggy than it appears, and makes for a wonderful climb.
Begin just left of center on a pile of cheater stones at a weakness in the wall. Climb up past an initial undercling crux (12a) to a no-hands rest. Continue up the short dihedral to the second crux below the roof (12b) which gains a crazy flake system. Follow this off to the right for many clips to a difficult section around a bulge, and then more easily to an intermediate anchor. Recover here and keep going! Three or four more clips on interesting, vertical face climbing/traversing leads to the anchor on Towering Inferno P1. Lower off with a 70m cord.
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