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Sport, 150 ft,
Avg: 4 from 22
FA: Alf, Marty Lewis, Jeff Schoen, Huey Wilson & Raleigh Collins, 10/91
> Sierra Eastside
> Bishop Area
> Owens River Gorge
> Inner Gorge
> Eldorado Roof
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! High water release May 13, 2019!!!
Alert! Water levels in the Gorge are set to rise starting Monday, May 13, 2019! From LADWP: "In order to manage the runoff, the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power plans to release water through the Middle Gorge starting on Monday May 13, 2019. LADWP is committed to public safety and is advising the public to practice general water safety and be aware of swift flowing water in this location. We will continue to keep residents in the Eastern Sierra informed of LADWP’s water operations for the spring and summer runoff."
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points. 2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates. 3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.) 4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others. 5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Looney Binge is an absolutely classic endurance testpiece on the underside of the Eldorado Roof. It is way less thuggy than it appears, and makes for a wonderful climb.
Begin just left of center on a pile of cheater stones at a weakness in the wall. Climb up past an initial undercling crux (12a) to a no-hands rest. Continue up the short dihedral to the second crux below the roof (12b) which gains a crazy flake system. Follow this off to the right for many clips to a difficult section around a bulge, and then more easily to an intermediate anchor. Recover here and keep going! Three or four more clips on interesting, vertical face climbing/traversing leads to the anchor on Towering Inferno P1. Lower off with a 70m cord.