It is difficult to stop and place gear in the firs...
Description
The nice crack right of the 2 all-bolted lines on the south end of the east face. It starts thin and hard, eases up, gets tough again, and finally eases up yet one more time. The bolt protects the upper crux, whereas down low the protection is tough to place. The top is very runout, but easy. Stemming and dropknees are a neccesity on this route.
Protection
There is 1 good bolt on the route. Otherwise bring small to medium gear. The anchors are a group of slings wrapped around a horn, so bring extras just in case. Also 2 ropes for the rap.
Led this one the other day, and I have a different perspective.Very difficult to place pro down low, due to the lieback, however, you can slot a hex in the obvious constriction. Above the bolts, the gear is predominately large nut size, and I started running out, that is if you go all the way to the slung horn, which I recommend. Very runout at the finish, but also very easy.
But as Guy says, use 1 rope, and do 2 rappels.
By Rob M. From: Holladay UT Oct 24, 2005 rating: 5.9
The "R" part happens at the top above all difficulties on terrain 5.5 or easier. Great route. From what little I recall, after the initial weird move off the deck, you can jam the crack (which becomes progressively more flaring) to the "funky bolts".
Stout. I recommend going straight up the dihedral at the finish instead of escaping left or right onto easy slabs. This means bumping up to finger tips, to finger pads, to a locking finger lock just before the end. Great climb.
By David Shiembob From: slc, ut May 15, 2007 rating: 5.9+ R
A little more than I bargained for for my warm-up route. Solid for the grade. I found it hard to protect the upper section, even before the 5.5 slab. Long pitch, 170-180 feet. Lieback? I didn't at all.
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Aug 14, 2007 rating: 5.9
Actually, there are two bolts on the route but the first one is probably the name for the route. It is a beat SMC hanger with half of the bolt shaft hanging out and bent. A foot higher or so is a better bolt. Although the route goes higher to a slung horn you can move off left to use intermediate chains for TR and easy rappel. We had 70m cords and had no problem using 1 cord. A 60m should work, but beware.
Parking Lot Rock
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