Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Parking Lot Rock - East

Beauty and the Beast T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funky Bolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Just Another Pretty Face S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spud Meets Hammerhead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stress Fracture T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tow Away Zone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Rhodes
Page Views: 4,467 total, 27/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 5, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


88 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the all-bolted line near the south end of the east face. The line on this route meanders, so be relaxed as to your interpretation of the line. Don't go straight from 1 bolt to the next. The first 2 bolts require a little leftward zagging, and then you traverse right under the roof band. Get on top of the roof band and traverse left. Finally pick your smear, and head on up to the chains. A smearing climb amidst a sea of edging.

Protection

9 draws for the climb, 2 more for the anchors and a coupld of long runners.

Photos

Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
yup. Aug 13, 2011
zoso
 
zoso  
 
lame Aug 12, 2011
Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
sam-- that's what she said. Aug 11, 2011
Bones Perkins
Rexburg, ID
  5.10c
Bones Perkins   Rexburg, ID
  5.10c
This is such a ridiculously fun line. But if you don't trust your smears, you won't be going anywhere on this! Just keep calm and let your rubber do the work. Jul 29, 2011
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
Solid 10d. Lead this on 9/13/2010 having just returned moments ago from a 5hr stint in the ER at Burly.

Two distinct 10d cruxes seperated by lots of 10c climbing. The opening sequence is akin to solving a Rubicks-Cube. The upper-crux is just damn cruel. Sep 18, 2010
ColinP  
A great mix-bag of climbing techniques: mini-crack, to undercling, over small roof, to smearland. I slipped in a small cam below and left of the first bolt. Once over the small roof, traverse down and left two steps, it's smearin' time. Sep 7, 2009
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.10d
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.10d
Wow what a fun scary climb! The first 3 bolts are scary as hell, then take a long break on top of the chickenhead before scrambling out onto the crux slab. The rest is easy. Jul 19, 2009
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.10c/d
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.10c/d
I agree w/Susan. Being a chicken, I actually got in a nut enroute to the first bolt. It really only helps with like 2 moves but if you aren't a slab guru it is reassuring to have! A great route. Sep 29, 2008
Clint Ballard
Greeley, CO
Clint Ballard   Greeley, CO
I really enjoyed this route. 10d Jun 13, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Rumor had it that mid-way was the crux. Personally it got my attention right from the start. Going straight up to the first bolt will leave you stranded with no place to go albeit protected. Try clipping bolt or moving back down and left before moving upward to overlaps. Fun route with sketchy movements thought low angle, yet scary mid-section. Fun to do while in area especially when you don' climb slabs.

10 bolts to chain anchors. Aug 14, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Good Route! Oct 24, 2006