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Routes in Parking Lot Rock - East

Beauty and the Beast T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funky Bolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Just Another Pretty Face S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spud Meets Hammerhead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stress Fracture T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tow Away Zone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Rhodes, OR Boyle, Barnes
Page Views: 2,067 total, 12/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 7, 2003
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

This is the first sport route to the right of "Just another Pretty Face" on the East side of Parking lot rock. The climb trends right with some fun fiction moves with palming and underclings. The climb eases for a few moves. The crux is at the bulge above. It can be climbed on the left with poor feet. A fun variation goes to the right with interesting underclings. Moderate climbing leads to the anchor.

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Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
 
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
 
I thoroughly enjoyed this route - STEEP friction at some of its finest. Next time, I'd climb Funky Bolt and hang the 4th bolt with a longer draw to take some sting out of making that reachy clip. Jun 6, 2016
kevinhansen
Albion Idaho
kevinhansen   Albion Idaho
Totally bonkers to lead. If you're not feeling it, climb funky bolt then tension traverse over to the chains. This route is friction dependant. NO hands and just steep feet for the first 4 bolts. Maybe you wana stick clip the second bolt to avoid a sprain or worse. With more traffic the route will polish and get even harder. Sep 4, 2012
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
 
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
 
It's pretty rare to get a pure friction climb that is not run-out, but that's what the first 5 bolts or so are. Really good. Aug 22, 2011
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Thought it was more like 5.11a. Oct 24, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.11c
Nathan Fisher  
  5.11c
Very nice line. Extreme friction and lip-chewing up through the first 4 bolts. Getting above the danger zone (bolt 2) took all my inner strength. Some reachy moves gets you above bolt 4 followed by easier climbing with one cool one-finger undercling (two, if your fingers are skinnier). Then the steep face. This seemed, not quite harder per se, but difficult in it's own right, at least the initial moves with the chalked pocket that you lunge from. Maybe my technique, or ability to see the moves was lacking here. But, after this committing move, the climbing eases to some steep edging that was a nice finish for a great route.

I personally felt the crux was that entire lower face. bolts1-4 Sep 5, 2005