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Routes in Parking Lot Rock - East

Beauty and the Beast T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funky Bolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Just Another Pretty Face S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spud Meets Hammerhead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stress Fracture T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tow Away Zone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,124 total · 10/month
Shared By: Rob Duncan on Sep 15, 2008
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

prominent hand crack/roof route to the right, about fifty feet, of funky bolt. look for the left facing dihedral that starts about fifteen feet off the deck. this dihedral, with a good hand crack in it, goes for about fifty feet until you see a huge roof that takes big gear (maybe eight or ten foot roof). fear not, for there abound plenty of feet and patina crimps on the left wall adjacent to and under the roof. continue above the roof for fifty feet or so, trending leftward, until you can clip some fixe rings around a bunch of webbing slung on a flake. bring your second up from there. Beware of the first fifteen feet, however, as it is strenuous bouldery climbing with gear you wish was better. We found this to be the crux. can be protected with yellow TCU and small wired stoppers.

Location

about fifty feet right of 'funky bolt', the line with a huge wide roof.

Protection

double rack C4s from .5 to 2, one each 3, 4, 5 C4. some small TCUs or aliens, blue to red, (yellow especially helpful for the first bit) you could probably put a #6 in the roof if you had one. one set of stoppers.

Photos

Jarrod LaFountain  
  5.11-
To echo once more, climb this route. It truly is very fun, proud, and interesting climbing. Cleaning will be a part of the deal for a while - I literally climbed over an active rat's nest towards the top. BETA: The bottom is harder than 10b/c (looks like some holds have broke?), probably more like 11b or V3/4 and easier if you have the reach up into the hand jam. I worked Crack of Doom in the morning and thought the starts were similar in what they required physically/mentally. Plug in a Camalot 0.3 up in there and fire into the jam then make one more move to better jams. Collect your feet and enjoy the fun. Not 'really' any roof moves, more like a tidbit of OW to round up into the roof's crack at the lip. NEAR THE TOP: climb up the left trending rampy crack/slab until you are pinched into the convergence of two 'little walls' of height ~3ft. The rock will be low angle and the corner is mossy but takes gear if you want to place. More importantly, your slung horn is 5ft left of this corner feature. Step out and slab over to it, replace some tat with your own if one piece looks iffy, and use two ropes or the intermediate straight down and 6ft climber's right. All in all, this was really fun, needs a little bit of gardening, and the roof section is one of the more memorable of my City climbs. Aug 21, 2017
Marlin Thorman
Spokane, WA
  5.10b
Marlin Thorman   Spokane, WA
  5.10b
Lots of dirt, leaves, spiderwebs and pine needles but still a great route. Needs more traffic to clean things up and it would help to have a bolted anchor up top. Rapped off the above mentioned slung horn with double ropes. The start is way harder than 10c but it protects fine. I got in a great Metolius Master cam #2 (yellow) up as high as I could go before it got hard. Overall the climb is definitely worth doing. Aug 5, 2016
Kurt Howes
  5.10d
Kurt Howes  
  5.10d
Good route, desperate start that could deserve a harder rating than 10.c. I post because I couldn't find the chain anchors and had to traverse up and left to a slung horn and do a double rap. Are there chains? Seems like this line deserves its own anchors because it's apparent others have dealt with the same shinanegans that I did. Gotta love those moderate roof traverses. I plugged a bomber #3 and didn't need anything bigger. Do it, and do a little vegetation cleaning while your at it. Jun 14, 2015
Mike Sullivan
Durango, CO
  5.10c
Mike Sullivan   Durango, CO
  5.10c
The low crux requires awkward and strenuous groveling, or else this would be a 4 star climb. The big roof is super fun, and rather exciting to exit. Jul 9, 2013
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
This route would be primo if it was clean. Despite the munge, certainly worth doing. Regular traffic can give it the complete makeover it deserves. Jun 16, 2013
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.10
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.10
Very difficult start. Yellow alien up high (work the feet). Get in a marginal hand jam, place a #2, and then you can completely pull the start.

For the roof, place a #3 at the beginning. And then although it looks scary, trust the face holds, and move out to the lip of the roof. At the lip, place a #4. Bump it as you move up! Otherwise, the rope will get stuck between the cam and the rock. I did that with a #5, and it was a royal hassle to free the rope. Save some #0.75s and #1s for the top. You can also slab traverse (sketchy) to the bush anchor to your left after exiting the roof. Jun 16, 2013
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.10c PG13
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.10c PG13
This route is really fun, but probably doesn't see much traffic or just needs some tlc to clean it up a bit. Really hard start for me but then the rest is just really fun. PG-13 probably comes from the start and after the roof is some lichen covered thin moves.

Put this on your moderate roof crack list! Sep 15, 2008