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Routes in Parking Lot Rock - East

Beauty and the Beast T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funky Bolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Just Another Pretty Face S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spud Meets Hammerhead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stress Fracture T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tow Away Zone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Bingham, Sterret
Page Views: 319 total · 2/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 12, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

This fun mixed route is located on the east side of Parking Lot Rock. It starts 15 ft to the right of Just Another Pretty Face.

Head up the flared left facing dihedral, place an RP, and pull on to the face. Load up on small nuts in the crack, and slab it to the only bolt. The moves left to the hand crack our the crux. The hand crack above is 5.8. End at the bolt anchor to the left or continue to the anchors on Funky bolt.

Protection

nuts, TCU's, and a few hand size cams

Photos

Brice W
  5.9+
Brice W  
  5.9+
This felt easier to me than Tow Away Zone. You can also head left at the top easily to get to the JAPF anchors. Sep 8, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Starting flare is more awkward than hard. Once you get established it's pretty easy to move up. Fun route, nice variety with easy hand crack at the top. We stopped short and used the chain anchors to the right for a TR and easy access down.

.5 TCU, 1 & 2" cams Aug 14, 2007
Nathan Fisher
  5.10a
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10a
I loved this lead, as it had a bit of everything. Nice flaring offwidth to start, followed by an easy face/crack sequence, followed by a bouldery move. Then some tenuous friction and an easy hand crack. If your seconding climber falls after un-clipping the bolt, they will swing and they will fall off the line and have a hard time getting back on line. No way to avoid this, just beware. Sep 5, 2005
You can also place a #4 camalot in the starting flare. Also place 2 good med. stoppers where the crack ends at the roof, because it is a long way to the bolt. Aug 12, 2004