Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jeff Lowe, Jon Marsh 1968
Page Views: 2,863 total · 15/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 5, 2003
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

119 Opinions

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This climb starts just to the left of Just Another Pretty Face 5.10c. Lieback and face climb to the first and only bolt. It is a little spicy getting there, so place your small stuff in the entrance crack. Clip the bolt and jam the moderate crack (#1-2 Camalots) to the anchor on JAPF.


TCUs and hand size cams...


Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Another great route on this east face. Some nice liebacking (not mandatory as one of my partners just face-climbed to the bolt), followed by either steep face climbing or wide stemming, followed by a nice sew-it-up hand crack. The traverse to the anchors will have your second cursing at you, if they don't like runout. But it is very easy. Sep 5, 2005
Portland, OR
rpc   Portland, OR
Another belay option (standard bolts can be crowded as they're used by multiple lines) is to make a long & runout slab run (right and up) to the slung 4-foot horn atop Funky Bolt. No pro but the slab is low 5th class. Not sure if single rope would work for rapping off here though. May 9, 2006
I made the first ascent of this route in 1968, with Jon Marsh, without the bolt. Jun 20, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Pretty cool, Jeff! Bet it was a pretty different place back then.

Cheers! Jun 20, 2007
Joseph Kolnik
Holladay, UT
Joseph Kolnik   Holladay, UT
Getting to the first bolt is a bit of a chore. Bring the small stuff if you are going to get this one without a stick clip. Above the small roof lies one of the finest hand size cracks in the area. Aug 13, 2008
Brice W
Brice W  
The stances were a little tenuous, but I got a good camalot and alien in before the bolt, so it didn't feel too spicy. Great route! Sep 8, 2008
Boise, ID
mkm   Boise, ID
Agreed. Very good route with a somewhat tricky start. Above the bolt is a great moderate handcrack. Extra # 1,2 camalots helpful.

If you want to avoid the traverse to anchors, continue climbing up the crack to chains just left of the crack at about 110-115'. This is the best option, but you MUST have two ropes or a 70m cord to get down.. Nov 5, 2008
Curt Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
Curt Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
There was chains at the top and we made it back down fine w/ a 60m... it's right at 1oo ft. tall. Jun 29, 2010
Ted Farley
Bozeman, Mt
Ted Farley   Bozeman, Mt
i got a good offset in one of the pods down low, enjoy the splitter up top! Jul 24, 2010
Todd Eddie
Salt Lake
Todd Eddie   Salt Lake
I tried left after the bolt and was shut down. Gear to the right looked bad. Got a couple c3s in below the bolt. IMHO this route is not for the new 10a climber, the lieback/slab moves were awkward for me ESP plugging gear. but I'm not good on granite, feel I have to add a grade to most. The crack above looks amazing, maybe next time! Jul 2, 2011
Finn The Human
The Land of Ooo
Finn The Human   The Land of Ooo
A high friction-y stance with my left hand in the under cling allowed me to reach for the chalked up jug above the roof with my right hand. A few decent pinches for the left hand and more high feet made pulling the roof pretty simple. Great hand and foot jamming up the crack, with some face features along the way. Fun route! Sep 12, 2011
Mr. Hummus
SLC, Utah
Mr. Hummus   SLC, Utah
Heads up everybody. The bolt is a tiny bit loose. It looked like it was out a bit when I clipped it, so I pushed it back in. I looked around and there aren't any other gear placements available in the vicinity, so I couldn't back it up. Two big moves past the bolt and there is solid gear. At any rate, I wouldn't recommend falling on the bolt. If you're not a solid 5.10 climber on granite, you maybe shouldn't climb this route. At least not until the bolt has been replaced. May 27, 2014
Portland, OR
rl23455   Portland, OR
Crap, I read the bolt situation now, it didn't seem that way when I did it. Maybe I didn't look close enough. I did note it was a pin driven bolt. The start sequence seems harder than 10a. But tiny cams can protect before and after the bolt. After the start sequence it goes down to 5.8. The new rap anchors directly on the route work with two 60m, just. Jul 26, 2014
Simon H
Oakland, CA
Simon H   Oakland, CA
This is a four star 5.7 handcrack with an interesting and funky 10a boulder problem in the first 20 feet. A beautiful forested belay spot too, cool and shady on a hot afternoon. May 30, 2017