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 ADVANCED
The Nuns
Select Route:
Bad Habit T 
Flying Nun, The T 
Holier Than Thou T,S 
Unforgiven, The T,S 
Where have the Wild Things Gone T 

Holier Than Thou 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jay Smith & Mark Hesse - 1995
Page Views: 4,600
Submitted By: Josh Janes on May 24, 2003

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climbers Nate? and Lisa on Holier Than Thou. 10/1...

Description 

Hard sport climbing up a dead vertical face using pinches, underclings, and pulls on delicate stalactites and knobs... exactly what you'd expect from a Castle Valley tower route, right? Holier than Thou climbs the beautiful, calcite-covered east face of the Nuns and is perhaps a welcome departure from the grunt fest of the nearby Honeymoon Chimney.

P1: 11 bolts to a two bolt belay. Jay Smith did a fantastic job bolting this line. The climbing is hard and in-your-face and the placements are spaced such that you are forced to do hard moves with bolts below you (you have to climb the route - you can't yard through it). As you stretch and stretch for holds and clips, marvel at how Smith, at 5'6", did it. Around the third bolt the cruxes start coming - a hard mantle, a long reach to a tiny edge, another long reach to an undercling with terrible feet. Higher up you step left onto a ramping feature and there's one more cruxy move here. The pitch is 120' long and I felt that there was a lot of 5.11 climbing on it - fortunately there are one or two rests as well. Also, be careful clipping the second bolt - definate groundfall potential here.

P2: Identify two lines: The original line goes up and left on black hangers at 5.10-, while a variation called "The Unforgiven" heads up and slightly right on silver hangers at 5.11c. We took the former. Clip four bolts (slightly runout but not as hard as the first pitch), then trend left around the corner, clipping an intermediate belay. Belay here or use a long runner and climb up past a second intermediate belay (again with the option of belaying or continuing up), eventually stepping left into a crack system. Climb up the short, excellent, left-curving crack at 5.10 (several hand-size pieces) to a final anchor on the summit.

Descent: Two or three raps will get you down (a 70m rope or two ropes required). I recommend leaving your second rope clipped to the anchor at the top of the first pitch and then doing a single rope rap from the summit to one of the intermediate anchors, then another single rope rap to the top of the first pitch, and finally a double rope rap to the ground.

A sensible way to climb the Nuns at a more moderate grade would be to link up The Flying Nun (10a) with P2 & 3 of Holier Than Thou (9+ & 10- respectively). At a higher standard, P1 of Holier Than Thou (11c) to The Unforgiven (11c) is the way to go.

Protection 

A dozen draws and several hand-sized cams for the finish (0.75-#2 Camalots).


Photos of Holier Than Thou Slideshow Add Photo
Olek at the top of pitch 4
Olek at the top of pitch 4
climbers Nate? and Lisa on the summit of the Nuns 10/19/2010.
climbers Nate? and Lisa on the summit of the Nuns ...
Steven Lucarelli nearing the anchors on the first pitch
Steven Lucarelli nearing the anchors on the first ...
Dave Vaughn at beginning of P1.
Dave Vaughn at beginning of P1.
ON the summit
ON the summit
Olek and I on top
Olek and I on top
Holier Than Thou
Holier Than Thou

Comments on Holier Than Thou Add Comment
Show which comments
By david goldstein
Jun 11, 2003

Has some excellent climbing, but also has some blemishes.Pros: 1st half of 1st pitch is excellent, 2nd pitch is stellar, sport climbers can escape at whatever point their comfort level has been exceeded. Cons: ledge fall potential from corner on 1st pitch, upper part of 1st pitch is contrived (4th class climbing available just around arete), last pitch is awkward and not fun.
By Lon Black
Oct 4, 2004

I only climbed the first pitch since we didn't have much sunlight left after Fine Jade. The route was cool. As the description states, some of the clips require you to do some tough moves above pro. Don't forget to bring your cajones.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Oh man! This route is super cool. The features are unreal the moves are aesthetically ticklish and the setting ... oh the setting. Gets shady real early.
One of my favorites!!!!!!!!
By Ken Duncan
Apr 8, 2007

Great route climbing what appears to be a candle wax covered wall. First pitch keeps your attention. Second pitch is somewhat contrived but still excellent climbing. Third pitch OK. Highly recommended.
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Really fun route with great movement and very interesting and unique features. The first pitch is long but not sustained, and I felt that it was much easier than 11c. It would certainly be 11a or even 10d in NC or WV but I am 6 feet tall and apparently the FA was done buy a shorter guy. The Unforgiven looks like it could be 11c, but I didn't do it.

Second pitch is fun and easy. Bring a few Aliens and some hand size pieces (mostly red C4) for the short third pitch. The crack has an awkward arch but is very fun, and the last move will get your attention, bomber gear at your knees.
By Jay K Smith
Mar 7, 2014

For all you sport climbers, here's the deal. I put the route up on lead, placed the bolts where I could and thought they were needed. I certainly didn't see any 4th class climbing anywhere near the upper part of the first pitch and headed to the anchors I'd placed on The Flying. The Flying was originally climbed in 2 pitches (as was Holier Than Thou) to the summit, up the most natural line. How that is contrived is unknown to me. Anyway, if you came to climb 4th class, you came to the wrong route. BTW the flying was the FA of the spire.

Maybe this should be in the forum, but just thought that readers would like to know how the route was originally climbed, certainly not in 3 or 4 pitches.
By Luke Mehall
From: Durango, Colorado
Mar 30, 2014

Super impressed in the style of this line. Kudos to the FA party. Five star route. 70 meter works. Definitely bring a small rack of cams for the final pitch.