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Routes in The Nuns

Bad Habit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Nun, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holier Than Thou T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unforgiven, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where have the Wild Things Gone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Jay Smith
Page Views: 1,435 total · 8/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Apr 30, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The Unforgiven is a three star pitch on the east face of Nuns (perhaps worth four if done as a logical second pitch to Holier Than Thou - see that description).

Climb the first pitch of Holier Than Thou (also 11c), then continue slightly right and straight up past 6 silver bolts before traversing right to gain a diagonaling finger crack which leads to the top of the face. The climbing is technical, fingery, and quite sustained.

One can rap from the summit in three raps with a single 70m rope - the final rap is rope-stretching.

Also, be aware that a lot of the rock is suspect on the Nuns - I fell twice ripping off holds on this pitch, and my partner fell once doing the same. The climbing is really good in spite of this though... I swear.

P.S. I climbed this again in 2007 and the pitch has either cleaned up a lot or my climbing has cleaned up a lot. Probably the latter. But in any case, I didn't rip a single hold off. Oh, and anyone who claims calcite is slippery needs to sample this climb -- the best friction I've ever seen.

Protection

6 bolts and cams from small to hand-size.

Photos

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Wear a helmet and don't leave anything you care about at the base of the climb. Very sustained steep slabbing. At some points the calcite is so thick that it could be fairly called Limestone. May 5, 2004
jakobi
moab, utah
jakobi   moab, utah
I guess I should have read the description better, I climbed to the last bolt but traversed left to the 2nd pitch anchor for the original finish which seemed contrived. There's no real indication of where to go after the last bolt which just leaves you in the middle of the face looking at a 15 ft runout traverse in either direction. Mar 27, 2013
Nolan Robertson
  5.11c
Nolan Robertson  
  5.11c
amazing pitch, felt pretty stout for 5.11.

you can't see the crack very well when traversing right at the last bolt, but it is there!

If you enjoy 5.11 face climbs, this should be a mandatory 2nd pitch for holier than thou. Feb 23, 2017

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