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Routes in The Nuns

Bad Habit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Nun, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holier Than Thou T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unforgiven, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where have the Wild Things Gone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,231 total, 13/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Apr 30, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The Flying Nun (listed as East Face in Bjornstad's guide?) is the obvious calcite-encrusted crack line to the right of Holier Than Thou. Begin in a left-facing corner before stepping onto the face and finishing at the aforementioned route's anchors.

To summit, continue on Holier Than Thou's 2nd & 3rd pitches.

Protection

A double set of cams to hand-size.
Erez Shani
Boulder
Erez Shani   Boulder
If you continue up the TRAD LINE:

End of pitch one is on the ledge to the right, no bolted anchor there, bring a long sling and back it up or go a little bit higher to the crack and belay form there.
If you want to continue to "Holier Than Thou" traverse left to the face (there are bolted anchors there).

Pitch 2 require BD camelot #3 or even maybe friend #4 (depends how far the roof you protect). I placed a piece and then traversed low to the crimps.
Keep going with the obvious crack, anchors will appear few moves above the end of the finger crack, place a good piece and go for the very sanndy moves to the top.
Really fun pitch ! (maybe 11- ? )

Pitch 3: just around the corner, very fun and short thin crack to the top anchors. (10+)

Recommended gear (BD):
- X1 red C3
- X2 .3,3 C4
- X3 0.4-2 C4
- 8-10 draws

Rap: single 70m is enough, rap "Holier Than Thou"

Also, Anyone knows the name of that line? (I heard it's in the new guidebook) Apr 14, 2016
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
Around 2008, We climbed the 1st pitch of The Flying Nun up to the obvious ledge below the large, right-facing, arching roof. Without any beta on the route, for the 2nd pitch, I chose to climb the obvious arching roof up and right. Challenging 5.10+ out the roof into one of the most awesome diagonalling thin hand cracks ever!(5.11a) A stunningly incredible pitch leading right to the summit of the north NUN. We saw the bolts out to the left figured that was another route... I highly suggest climbing this 2-pitch splitter crack system to the summit!! Jun 19, 2013
I felt that the climbing on the first two pitches was solid, sustained, and "in-your-face" for the 5.10a rating.
The nature of the route is odd for Castle Valley. The majority of the route is face climbing on sharp calcite while clipping bolts!
The belay at the top of P1 is an uncomfortable hanging belay. The first few moves on P2 is the technical crux in my opinion. P3 is short with only one move of 5.10 at the top of a tight hand crack.

Bring quickdraws, a set of medium/large sized nuts, double cams from tiny to a #2 camalot, and also a #3 camalot is handy for the bottom and the top.
Rap the route. Double 60's will get you down from the top of 2nd pitch, avoiding that 1st belay.

All in all, it is a long hike for OK climbing. But it IS an official desert tower! Kind of...
Oct 8, 2012
Steve Bond  
 
Did this route 10/8/09/ "North Face Right" in the book I believe. Sharp calcite. Harder climbing starts at about 30' with mediocre gear and a potential for a fall to a ledge/corner. Sustained. Felt harder than .10a, but still .10-range. Not an easy .10 for certain. Aside from a medium and large (2, 3 Camalot) to start, we were all small gear - yellow/orange/red Metolius, 0.5 and 0.75 Camalot, and a few draws for the merge w/ Holier Than Thou. Despite this long description, I would not recommend this route unless you like long approaches for 1 or 2 star climbing. (Full disclosure: we're a bit weak these days) Nov 9, 2009