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Routes in The Nuns

Bad Habit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Nun, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holier Than Thou T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unforgiven, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where have the Wild Things Gone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Catto, Jay Smith, Mark Hesse: 1995.
Page Views: 1,854 total, 19/month
Shared By: charley graham on Nov 1, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

pitch 1: classic stemming and jamming in a calcified open book that leans to the left at its top. begin on small holds with tiny cams for pro. the corner gradually widens and steepens, going through the sizes up to big hands. exit the corner at its top and belay at a small stance. 5.11c, 150ft.
pitch 2: pretty good climbing. straight up some easy cracks to a steep hand crack and the summit. 5.10, 100ft.

Location

the first route encountered to the left of holier than thou on the north face of the nuns. overhanging widening left facing corner. rappel the route. two ropes required.

Protection

triples from blue alien/purple tcu to #3 camalot. nuts may be useful right off the deck.

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