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Routes in The Nuns

Bad Habit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Nun, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holier Than Thou T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unforgiven, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where have the Wild Things Gone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Romain Vogler, Christian Schwarz - Aug. 6, 1985
Page Views: 4,391 total, 26/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Oct 26, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a great route on the West face of the Nuns. Pitch 1- Good hands up the right side of a pillar for 20 feet leads to a steep jam/lieback corner to a two bolt belay. 5.11Pitch 2- Interesting and good climbing follows thin cracks to a gear belay at the notch. 5.11Pitch 3- Go north on a ledge to anchors and climb 5.9 crack to the summit.

Descent- 1 short rap off the top to the anchors at the beginning of pitch 3, and 1 60 meter rap to the ground from there.

Protection

1 set TCU's, 1 set stoppers, 2- .5 camalots, 4- .75 camalots to #2 camalots, 1 #3 camalot.

Photos

Walked by this route today and it brought back memories of doing the first ascent of the first pitch of this route in 1982, previous to the FA reported here, with my good friend Paul Scannel who is now deceased. He later died around 86 in a helicopter crash ski guiding in the Ruby Mtns Nevada. He was a great guy and great friend!! The rock looked kinda chossy above. I recall rapping off a nut or two, we did not place bolts for an anchor and never reported this ascent which was the MO for us back then. Several years later it was reported as a FA going to the top. I didn't remember reading any mention of our gear being found on the first pitch. First pitch was pretty good from what I remember. Thought I would post here just for the record. Oct 12, 2016
Wyatt Payne
Littleton CO
 
Wyatt Payne   Littleton CO
 
Starts getting sun at top of 1st pitch ~11:30. First pitch feels tough for the grade. Highly asthetic line. Oct 3, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Has the star-drive in this been replaced yet? Aug 16, 2009
Ben Folsom  
 
I thought the second pitch of this was classic. It was more broken rock than the first pitch, but not chossy and much more interesting than the first pitch. I had one set of TCU's, a few medium cams and stoppers for that pitch. I was nervous about not having enough gear, but the single set and stoppers ended up being perfect. I was well protected for the whole pitch. Nov 27, 2007
P1: Strenuous slightly overhanging in a corner need xtra .75 and #1 BD cams. The anchor is an uncomfortable hanging belay on two nuts in crack, a pin, and star driven bolt. Anchor could be replaced. Bring xtra .75 to back up anchor. Great pitch! Felt harder than the grade.
P2: Scary and chossy. Follows discontiuous flakes and edges. Take triples of small cams and nuts unless you feel comfortable running out on sketchy rock. We broke it up in two pitches because my partner ran out of small stuff for the upper part.
Would recommend doing the first pitch, but would not repeat the 2nd pitch. Sep 28, 2007