Headstone & Joshua Trees on a beautiful day. Feb ...
The original name given this formation by Mark Powell and Bill Feuerer in 1958 was "The Can Opener." Later, early Wolfe guides called it "Balance Rock." Wolfe changed the name again to "Headstone Rock" since there is some evidence that this name was used before climbers named it (a couple of miners are buried nearby).
Whatever you call it, Headstone is one of the true classic locations at JTree, and home to two of the parks most popular moderate routes: SW Corner
(5.6 ***) and Cryptic
(5.8 ***). Although the SW Corner offers spectacular exposure (due to the positioning of the rock), both routes are well bolted by JTree standards. In addition to these two routes, the South Face Center goes at 5.9, and there are some bolted 5.reallyhard sport climbs on the blank, overhanging north face of the rock as well.
Quickdraws are all you'll need for protection, although a couple of double-length slings will help for setting a belay on the top of the SW Corner.
Rappel descent from bolts and chains on top of the rock.
Like I said, these routes are POPULAR, so get there early in the morning or climb them late in the evening. But they're well worth it!
Park on the east side of the Ryan Campground Loop, next to the bathroom. From there it's an easy 100 yard plus 2 minutes of 3rd class approach (past some kind bouldering, by the way).
Weather station 11.7 miles from here
8 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Headstone Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Headstone Rock:
SW Corner 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Cryptic 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Headmaster 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Headstone Rock
SW Corner 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b CA
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Headstone Rock
Awesome setting, great summit, big air underneath you. This is a great climb. It's popular, and there's often a line, but it's still well worth doing. Ss soon as you hit the corner past the second bolt, it's like there's no one else around but you and a hundred feet of air. The crux is negotiating your way over a small bulge above the second bolt -- the holds are there and bomber, though, so fire away!! This is one climb that I intend to come back and do again, many times.For excellent phot...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Rappelling Headstone Rock.
Climbers on the Southwest Corner and Cryptic.
Headstone Rock. Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Climbers on Headstone Rock (((2-29-2004)))
BETA PHOTO: Anchors for Top Roping Cryptic.
Headstone Nov. 2004 We were climbing in shorts two...
Headstone Rock with Saddle Rocks in the Background...
Celebrating atop Headstone Rock, Joshua Tree.
Leading at sunset, so CLASSIC!
Descending Headstone Rock. Photo by Blitzo.
Topping out on the 5.9 high ball on the north side...
Bouldering below Headstone Rock, Joshua Tree NP
Headstone during Sunrise from Ryan Campground
BETA PHOTO: Joe De Luca attempting the 2nd ascent of The Cutti...
Classic Headstone with me on top
Oh, F**k, I forgot the rack. Can you just toss it...
BETA PHOTO: Headstone Rappel Anchors (taken May 2011)
south side of Headstone rock
Headstone with Cryptic on the left side
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