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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Central Joshua…
> Sheep Pass Area
> Ryan Campground
> Headstone Rock
Headmaster
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Headstone Rock
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Cryptic S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cutting Edge, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Headbanger's Ball T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Headmaster TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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South Face Center TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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SW Corner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Jonny Woodward 11/87 |
| Page Views: | 4,109 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is on the north side of Headstone Rock, the side you rap off, and climbs somewhat diagonally up and right across the face on small holds and lots of difficult moves. Seldom done.
There used to be a bolt ladder up this face, but after the route was toproped free, the FA party decided it wasn't needed and chopped it. There was some controversy afterwards and some people to this day feel it should have been left. Perhaps if it was still intact the recent Three Amigos debacle would not have transpired? Something to think about.
There used to be a bolt ladder up this face, but after the route was toproped free, the FA party decided it wasn't needed and chopped it. There was some controversy afterwards and some people to this day feel it should have been left. Perhaps if it was still intact the recent Three Amigos debacle would not have transpired? Something to think about.
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