Gilded Lily 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Bernard and Robert Gillett, 1990 |
| Submitted By: | Mikelsons on Jun 24, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: TJ preparing to climb on TR.
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Description Start below the roof on the left side of the southeast face, beneath the obvious line of bolts. Climb around the roof on the right side, then step left onto the slab. Climb straight up on thin hands and great friction for feet. The crux is at the fourth bolt. From there, the route moves closer to the arete on the left. The difficulty eases for about 20 feet then around the 7th bolt it gets steep again. From there, it's easy to the anchor. This is an exciting climb for its lack of positive hands. It could use some more traffic though, there is still a fair amount of lichen.
Location The route is clearly visible from the Jurassic Park trail. It ascends a fairly flat face, just left of a chimney. There's a roof right at the bottom. Descend by rappel or by lowering with a 60m rope. A 50m would NOT have been long enough!
Protection This was originally done as a traditional lead. It was retrobolted to have 9 bolts to a two bolt anchor (11 bolts total). The anchor has rappel rings.
BETA PHOTO: Jurassic Park, showing the major formations.
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By Bernard Gillett
Jul 9, 2007
| For the record: Robert and I did this climb without the bolts. I don't know who decided to turn it into a bolt route. |
By Andy Mahoney
Aug 15, 2007
| I led this sometime in June '07, thinking it was Coloradoddity (looks like I wasn't the only one - it matches the description pretty well except for the roof right at the start and Gilded Lilly wasn't listed on Mtn Project at the time). Thought it was a bit stiff for a 5.6 but had a blast. Not sure it felt 5.9, but it would be a different proposition without bolts. |
By Paul Donald Andrews
From: Nederland, Co.
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.8+
| This is a beautiful climb with bolts just where you want them. A short 5.9 crux at the 4th bolt, and then exciting, exposed climbing to the anchors, which are perfectly placed for a 60m rope. One of the best at the park. |
By Brian Wright
From: Glenwood Springs, Co
Jul 27, 2012
rating: 5.9
| I am a little confused why this climb is on MP twice. I get now that it was retrobolted but still.... I found this climb to be really good, one of my favorites at Jurassic Park. A short bit of 5.9 around the fourth bolt. Good fun and not as runnout as some of the other JP climbs nearby. |
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