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 ADVANCED
Walt's Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.7 Cracks T 
Boulder Exit 9 T 
Edward's Crack, Left Exit T 
Edward's Crack, Right Friction Finish T 
Edwards' Crack T 
Foolishness T 
Fourth Of July Crack (Hard Promises) T 
Friction Slide T,S,TR 
In Through The Out Door (formerly entered as Water Streak II) T,S 
Jabberwocky 
Jacquot's Face T 
Jake Direct T 
Jake's Variation S 
Mantle Route AKA Koedt's Route TR 
Mary 
Satterfield's Crack T 
Sisca Face T 
Tourist Trap T 
Walt's Wall T 
Water Streak (aka Friday's Follies) T,TR 
Weak Become Heroes 
Unsorted Routes:

Friction Slide 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Not me
Page Views: 2,470
Submitted By: Chad Bowman on Oct 15, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Flake start on Friction Slide.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From Walt's Wall Route (p1), head left or west about 20-30 feet over a rock to a small area to throw packs down (like a small room.) This route is right between Ed's Crack and the Mantle Route. You can either go straight up from the left side of the "room" or you can do the right alternate start. There's a flake if you go right, but angle up to the left through a couple of bolts. Belay at the beginning of pitch 2 of Walt's Wall. A TR can be set by leading Walt's pitch one and walking over on a small ledge.

Protection 

There are a couple (2 or 3) bolts, so bring a couple of draws. Then bring some medium to large nuts for the belay.

Location 

Per Eric Goltz: the route actually starts just a few yards climber's RIGHT from Ed's Crack.


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By Chad Bowman
Jun 25, 2004

If you don't use the boulder behind you on the right variation, it feels like 10a (and it's a lot of fun!)
By Chad Bowman
Jul 26, 2004

I apologize, the flake is on the left side, not the right.
By Eric Goltz
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Confusing route description: the route actually starts just a few yards climber's RIGHT from Ed's Crack, on a sort of arete w/ a protectable flake. From atop this pitch you can easily finish Ed's Crack.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 30, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

You will most likely want to protect the beginning flake section with trad gear. A yellow Alien worked great. Fun climbing from then on and for those of us who would rather take our chances on slab friction Vedauwoo 5.8 then a Vedauwoo 5.7 awkward crack, this is the way to avoid the first section of Edward's.

There are two bolts after which the climbing is run out to the belay but a lot easier. Suggest a couple of smaller size cams and tri cams for the belay. If you wish to descend from here do the easy but exposed (can be belayed and protected if you like) traverse east across the ledge to the first bolt belay on the Walt's wall route and rappel back down.
By Rodger Raubach
Jun 9, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

This can actually be thought of as a "hard start" variation for Walt's Wall; Edward's Crack can be reached by climbing the Siska Face. It's also a nice toprope for climbers wanting to explore the wonderful world of face/friction climbing at Vedauwoo!