Friction Slide 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | Not me |
| Submitted By: | Chad Bowman on Oct 15, 2003 |
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Description From Walt's Wall Route (p1), head left or west about 20-30 feet over a rock to a small area to throw packs down (like a small room.) This route is right between Ed's Crack and the Mantle Route. You can either go straight up from the left side of the "room" or you can do the right alternate start. There's a flake if you go right, but angle up to the left through a couple of bolts. Belay at the beginning of pitch 2 of Walt's Wall. A TR can be set by leading Walt's pitch one and walking over on a small ledge.
Protection There are a couple (2 or 3) bolts, so bring a couple of draws. Then bring some medium to large nuts for the belay.
Location Per Eric Goltz: the route actually starts just a few yards climber's RIGHT from Ed's Crack.
| Comments on Friction Slide |
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By Chad Bowman
Jun 25, 2004
| If you don't use the boulder behind you on the right variation, it feels like 10a (and it's a lot of fun!) |
By Chad Bowman
Jul 26, 2004
| I apologize, the flake is on the left side, not the right. |
By Eric Goltz
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2008
rating: 5.8
| Confusing route description: the route actually starts just a few yards climber's RIGHT from Ed's Crack, on a sort of arete w/ a protectable flake. From atop this pitch you can easily finish Ed's Crack. |
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 30, 2008
rating: 5.8
| You will most likely want to protect the beginning flake section with trad gear. A yellow Alien worked great. Fun climbing from then on and for those of us who would rather take our chances on slab friction Vedauwoo 5.8 then a Vedauwoo 5.7 awkward crack, this is the way to avoid the first section of Edward's.
There are two bolts after which the climbing is run out to the belay but a lot easier. Suggest a couple of smaller size cams and tri cams for the belay. If you wish to descend from here do the easy but exposed (can be belayed and protected if you like) traverse east across the ledge to the first bolt belay on the Walt's wall route and rappel back down. |
By Rodger Raubach
Jun 9, 2013
rating: 5.8-
| This can actually be thought of as a "hard start" variation for Walt's Wall; Edward's Crack can be reached by climbing the Siska Face. It's also a nice toprope for climbers wanting to explore the wonderful world of face/friction climbing at Vedauwoo! |
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