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Delicate Mechanism S 
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Life During Wartime T 
Mildew Encrusted Shower Stall T 
Not Proud Enough to Name T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Delicate Mechanism 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Calder & Lewis 2002
Page Views: 420
Submitted By: david goldstein on Dec 1, 2006

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Huong smiling at the slabby roof section!

Description 

2.5 stars. The sort of obscure pleaure that makes the ORG worth repeat visits.

Up an easy dihedral, passing two bolts, to a roof. Traverse L under the roof, slabby, awkward and, I thought, cruxy, and pull up onto a ledge at the base of a short, hanging face. Pull past the face which feels unaccountably exposed and gain a ramp which is followed easily to steeper and harder climbing at the end.

We were able to just barely lower the leader off with a 60 meter rope. If you try this, be very careful since the belayer may have to climb up the route for a few feet to get the leader to the ground. The route leans/traverses a fair amount and would be difficult to clean on lower, esp. w/ a 60 M rope.

Location 

In a left facing corner capped by a roof after 20', just left of Too Proud To Ignore.

Protection 

11 bolts


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By grizz
Nov 4, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I felt there were two distinct cruxes. The lower crux was definitely making my way under the roof at the beginning which I thought was harder than the upper crux. Great route.