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|Type: ||Trad, 5 pitches, 550 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10c/d [details]|
|FA: ||Doug Robinson & Jay Jensen / Dean Hobbs & Andy Selters|
|Season: ||Not Winter|
|Submitted By: ||Adam Winters on Jun 9, 2009|
A look at the 2nd pitch of 'Crack Kingdom', just l...
An excellent route with cracks of all sizes. It offers just about every crack technique and features some great jamming on the 3rd pitch finger crack.
This route links the original routes 'Crack of No Hope', FA-Doug Robinson/Jay Jensen, and 'Wild Kingdom', FA-Dean Hobbs/Andy Selters. This combination is the recommended way to go...
Pitch 1: Begin as 'West Face', but at the big ledge near the top of P-1 break left off 'West Face' and traverse left along the ledge, passing the rappel anchor and the obvious off-width. Build a belay at the base of the next short arching crack on a nice little perch. To decrease rope-drag belay at the rap anchor then have the follower continue past to the proper belay stance. (5.10a)
Pitch 2: Climb up the short right-arching crack past broken blocks to a thin chimney on the right side of a large detached block. Tackle the next short off-width then left into the funky flare/V-groove to a tricky exit sequence (crux). Follow the easy low-angle chimney to its top then step down and left to belay on a ledge below the obvious left-facing corner. (5.10b)
Pitch 3: Up the nice corner to the steep finger crack that leads up and right out of the corner. Pop over the lip (crux) following the crack out right, then back left to a short traverse around the arete to a short splitter hand crack. Follow this up to a big ledge and belay at the base of the short and thin right-facing flake. (5.10c)
Pitch 4: Up the flake (crux), then thru some 4th class scrambling to the big ledge below the true summit. (5.10b)
Descent: Rappel, downclimb, or lower 40 feet down and right to the first proper rappel station on the exposed block. (5.5) From here you have four 35 meter rappels (two 60m ropes/one 70m)
Northwest face of the Pinnacle. Find the 15 foot block/flake at the base with finger cracks in both sides to start.
Standard rack to 4"
Doubles from small fingers to hands are useful
BETA PHOTO: Cardinal Pinnacle Topo
|Comments on Crack Kingdom
Jun 10, 2009
This is my favorite of the routes I've done on Cardinal. The pitch3 finger crack is truly stellar.
|By Bruce Willey|
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 15, 2009
Got a left knee stuck in the off-width exit move on P-2. Never thought it would come out and had visions of that dude in Utah who cut off his arm. At first I thought it was a cool, no hands rest, only to discover the knee had cammed in there pretty good. Took about half hour to free and now my knee is the size of a small, seedless watermelon. Great route, though.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
May 22, 2012
Very cool climb. It seemed to be a much more physical climb than West Face, but OW and hard fingers will do that.
First pitch - the always slightly devious 5.10a shared with West Face then move the belay left to aim up at the obvious o-dub.
Second pitch - the offwidth isn't too bad and afterward you basically alpine scramble in terrain that is cool but a little head's up since you don't want to knock any chock stones down. 5.10b.
Third pitch - pull the roof after the cool dihedral and go up a ways to the crux exiting the finger crack into the chimney for some burly and technical climbing. I ended up facing left and getting a high foot onto a sloping crack rail to get past the crux. It just took a lot of juice figuring that out. From the chimney traverse left into some marbled, crystal-studded rock that is like a stamp of approval from the Norse god of climbing and finish on some thin hand jamming. Just to excite your second, somehow completely forget to clip your pro in the 5.9 thin hands exit crack like I did. WTF? 5.10c.
Fourth pitch - the final kick in the pants - you could definitely blow the onsight here! A strange but cool 15 foot 5.10b boulder problem finds you crimping all out on a huge thin flake over tiny pro only meant to keep you from landing on your belayer (you'd most likely ledge out on a fall). Scramble up and right to a short rappel that lands you at the usual Prow rap descent anchors. 5.10b.
I guess a bit of scrambling here and there makes up a fifth pitch, as there are five pitches denoted in this description? Regardless, it is fairly unlikely to link any pitches unless one is comfortable simuling at the 5.10 level.
There is some loose stuff on this route and the slope of the ground follows you so sometimes the exposure isn't as wicked as it could have been, but, overall, the climbing is fantastic.
For the rack, I'd rec doubles from fingers to #3 camalot and singles in #4 and #5 Camalots (C4) plus a set of nuts.