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Snowshed Wall
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Aerial S 
Alvin's Route (TR) TR 
Bell Bottom Blues T 
Bottomless Topless T,TR 
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Composure T 
Conform or Be Cast Out S 
Crack of the Eighties T 
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Karl's Gym T 
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Molar Concentration T 
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YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,813
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Feb 7, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (82)
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Staying composed on the free solo

Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall MORE INFO >>>


This beautiful dihedral lies near the base of the gully on the right side of Snowshed. Unforgetable jams and stems up the clean crack are well protected. An intermediate belay can be set at the top of the dihedral before running it out a bit to the top of the rock, but if I remember right this isn't really necessary.


standard rack to 3"

Photos of Composure Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On the start of Composure (I think).  I didnt know...
On the start of Composure (I think). I didnt know...
Rock Climbing Photo: Composure
BETA PHOTO: Composure
Rock Climbing Photo: Exciting, fun 5.6!  First trad lead
Exciting, fun 5.6! First trad lead

Comments on Composure Add Comment
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By 426
Mar 6, 2007

Can step left to anchors of Molar Concentration if you are teaching n00bs how to climb and don't want communication issues (Showshed often windy).

One of the best easy routes at Donner. You might have to wait in line...
By LifeIsGood
From: Reno, NV
May 15, 2010

Fun crack - I did a mock lead on this a few years ago (2007) and then stopped (learning to) lead trad ...

Ticked this one of as my 2nd lead on gear though in 2009 and felt great. Until I got to the top that is because I didn't have a whole lot left to build my anchor with (didn't use the bolts at Molar concentration) but I made due.

Great crack for we n00bs to learn to lead in ...
From: Portlandia, OR
Jun 2, 2010

Go to the very top of the route if at all possible. This involves pulling a small roof followed by a bigger crack to the top of snowshed wall. Use the tree up there to belay your second as there are no bolts and it may be too far to lower from the tree unless you have a 70m rope with your buddy standing on the big ledge to the right of the crack.
By Micah Rogers
From: Athens, GA
Jun 2, 2014

Great route. If you do top out and make belay from the tree up top, beware of rope drag and little to no communication, which might make it tough for newer climbers. The roof move is fun.

On a side note, we climbed there last Friday and had to bail rather quickly, leaving behind a cam about 40' in the crack. If someone comes across it and feels like returning it, I'd be forever in your service. I can ID it if you like.
By Guy T. B.
From: Santa Cruz, California
Aug 30, 2015

Super fun line! often crowded so get there early and DRESS WARM! Got on the route at seven thirty this morning and froze my ass off.

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