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Snowshed Wall
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Composure 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,597
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Feb 7, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (64)
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Staying composed on the free solo

Description 

This beautiful dihedral lies near the base of the gully on the right side of Snowshed. Unforgetable jams and stems up the clean crack are well protected. An intermediate belay can be set at the top of the dihedral before running it out a bit to the top of the rock, but if I remember right this isn't really necessary.

Protection 

standard rack to 3"


Photos of Composure Slideshow Add Photo
On the start of Composure (I think).  I didnt know...
On the start of Composure (I think). I didnt know...
Composure
BETA PHOTO: Composure

Comments on Composure Add Comment
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By 426
Mar 6, 2007

Can step left to anchors of Molar Concentration if you are teaching n00bs how to climb and don't want communication issues (Showshed often windy).

One of the best easy routes at Donner. You might have to wait in line...
By LifeIsGood
May 15, 2010

Fun crack - I did a mock lead on this a few years ago (2007) and then stopped (learning to) lead trad ...

Ticked this one of as my 2nd lead on gear though in 2009 and felt great. Until I got to the top that is because I didn't have a whole lot left to build my anchor with (didn't use the bolts at Molar concentration) but I made due.

Great crack for we n00bs to learn to lead in ...
By SKI
From: Portlandia, OR
Jun 2, 2010

Go to the very top of the route if at all possible. This involves pulling a small roof followed by a bigger crack to the top of snowshed wall. Use the tree up there to belay your second as there are no bolts and it may be too far to lower from the tree unless you have a 70m rope with your buddy standing on the big ledge to the right of the crack.
By Micah Rogers
From: Athens, GA
Jun 2, 2014

Great route. If you do top out and make belay from the tree up top, beware of rope drag and little to no communication, which might make it tough for newer climbers. The roof move is fun.

On a side note, we climbed there last Friday and had to bail rather quickly, leaving behind a cam about 40' in the crack. If someone comes across it and feels like returning it, I'd be forever in your service. I can ID it if you like.