Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,387 total · 10/month
Shared By: 426 on Apr 17, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

When the queue is high for Composure and you have a bit of flair (and a big piece) look to the Flakes.

High adventure value pulling a mini-roof and onto the arete. Gorgeous "Snowyshed" rock to the top.

Someone I took up this climb deemed it "rather British"...

Location

Right of Composure maybe 30' (but not in the chimney) is some scary looking big flakes. Trend left until you can get thonker pro on the pretty white arete. Climb sculpted rock to the top.

Protection

A standard rack works okay, but a 5 Camalot can work wonders for the psyche (place lower on the climb, behind "mostly solid" flake.

Photos

urs
 
urs  
 
I believe this is called Rapid Transit 5.8. Jul 22, 2009
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
Maybe I didn't climb the exact line this route takes (we went pretty much straight up the face), but I found it to be spooky, sustained, steep, thin on the feet with some muscular liebacking required, funneling you to a pro-less mini-roof finish that was very thin all around and kept me gripped on TR!

With so many ginormous, hollow flakes and full-on face moves with no pro, to lead this would be very heady indeed! :-O Jul 8, 2010
BruceB
Reno, NV
 
BruceB   Reno, NV
 
Carville shows another climb also on this face called "Shake it out" rated at 5.10b. I think I started on Rapid Transit by staying left of the easy flakes and right of the arete, but then headed straight up through the thinnest areas and finally through a thin roof and finger crack which I think is the end of Shake it out. I would rate that line about 5.10b. Worth doing - on top rope. Basically ditto what Aerili said. Aug 15, 2012