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Routes in North Face

Aerial S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Alvin's Route (TR) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bell Bottom Blues T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bottomless Topless T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Break Out T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bypass T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Composure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack of the Eighties T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devaluation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devaluation Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Disciples Of the New Wave T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hair Lip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hair Shirt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair and Now S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jam Session T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Karl's Gym T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Manic Depression T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Molar Concentration T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey Paws T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On The Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Palsy T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Panic in Detroit T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pea Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peter Principle T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rapid Transit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Split Pea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Fingers Gold T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,666 total · 22/month
Shared By: Lurker on Mar 10, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Access Notes Details

Description

An unsung classic for Donner Summit....climb through blocky sections to a nice hand crack. Take a rest, plug a few pieces, and gun the airy roof. Finish up crack to right with new anchors.

Location

Up in the West gully of Snowshed, on the left side. Just right of the large chimney system, and left of Turoid Roof (5.12+?).

Protection

Gear to 3", chain(?) anchors.

Photos

Peter Valchev
Truckee, CA
  5.11a
Peter Valchev   Truckee, CA
  5.11a
Super awesome climb! The new book has it at 5.10d, I think 11a is fair but who cares... tricky moves to mantle over the roof (which for me was harder than pulling the roof itself). Possible to place a piece overhead to protect while locked off, but strenuous and blocks that fingerlock for the mantle move... better to go for it if you're up for it, I suppose. Aug 20, 2012
213blc
THA WEST COAST
  5.11a
213blc   THA WEST COAST
  5.11a
Absolutely stellar. The exposure is 5 stars alone, and the many challenging moves are excellent to say the least. Wow. 11a is probably fair given the "10d, errr 11b circuit" Donner standard ;-) Aug 20, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
This is a firm entry in the Snowshed Sleeper Classic Circuit. It drips with exudate of LOB (Locals Only Brah).

Somehow, it's a line that just blends into the scenery and is easily overlooked. Once you climb this route, you realize the fun you were missing.

Varied movement, from liebacks, to a bit o' wide, to a roof more at home in the sport climbing idiom, you really can't go wrong. I like a single #4 camalot a bit lower on the route and doubles of fingers to #3 camalot. My go to piece at the lip jug is a .75" camalot in the horizontal. Bring yer slings for rope drag. Sep 3, 2015

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