Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,947 total · 24/month
Shared By: Lurker on Mar 10, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

An unsung classic for Donner Summit....climb through blocky sections to a nice hand crack. Take a rest, plug a few pieces, and gun the airy roof. Finish up crack to right with new anchors.

Location

Up in the West gully of Snowshed, on the left side. Just right of the large chimney system, and left of Turoid Roof (5.12+?).

Protection

Gear to 3", chain(?) anchors.

Photos

Peter Valchev
Truckee, CA
  5.11a
Peter Valchev   Truckee, CA
  5.11a
Super awesome climb! The new book has it at 5.10d, I think 11a is fair but who cares... tricky moves to mantle over the roof (which for me was harder than pulling the roof itself). Possible to place a piece overhead to protect while locked off, but strenuous and blocks that fingerlock for the mantle move... better to go for it if you're up for it, I suppose. Aug 20, 2012
213blc
THA WEST COAST
  5.11a
213blc   THA WEST COAST
  5.11a
Absolutely stellar. The exposure is 5 stars alone, and the many challenging moves are excellent to say the least. Wow. 11a is probably fair given the "10d, errr 11b circuit" Donner standard ;-) Aug 20, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
This is a firm entry in the Snowshed Sleeper Classic Circuit. It drips with exudate of LOB (Locals Only Brah).

Somehow, it's a line that just blends into the scenery and is easily overlooked. Once you climb this route, you realize the fun you were missing.

Varied movement, from liebacks, to a bit o' wide, to a roof more at home in the sport climbing idiom, you really can't go wrong. I like a single #4 camalot a bit lower on the route and doubles of fingers to #3 camalot. My go to piece at the lip jug is a .75" camalot in the horizontal. Bring yer slings for rope drag. Sep 3, 2015