Church Bowl Tree 

This is a great climb to break into valley .10. There is a second crux right at the very end. Also, be sure to sling your nuts on this one, I saw a leader take a fall going for the chains. Top piece held, but the zipper popped two nuts below that. yikes. Also, this is just .10a to get to the first anchor, which is what most people do.

Is this the climb that begins right behind an old bench? Or am I thinking of something else?

Is this the climb that feels like the previous 6,923 ascents were made by people with pepperoni grease running down their fingers?

George and Bob, you are both correct. Not that technically hard, but greasy for sure.

For the true Church Bowl Tree Experience, traverse left on small edges below the chains and ascend the arching, left to right crack to the ledge with said "Tree" and an anchor. It is possible to clip the chains before starting the traverse; this would probably afford a little better protection than the infamous nut placements at the top of the "first pitch."

Grease is the way we are feelin'

"greasiest route in the valley"

Per Dave Collins, Tom Rohr climbed to where the chains are now at prior to 1970. Dave and Mark Jefferson nailed up to that spot, tension traversed to the left, and used nuts to reach the ledge above. This was done the day the Yosemite riot of 1970 started!

Check out Farretlegger's (the 11th) post on Barry Bate's thread about the day the riots started:

www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1209560/Yosemite-riots-the->>>

FFA: unknown, by 1982

I can't help but wonder how polished it's going to be in 40 more years.

Although a little above my general range, I felt this was really hard for the grade as a lead. Assess your needed pro ahead of time as placement positions are generally pumpy, and top anchors are just hanging from the mostly-blank face with no rest position to clip them.

The start is damned-near impossible if the rock isn't bone dry (it wasn't visibly wet in April when we climbed, but the friction feet weren't sticking either).

My partner was stoked to TR this one, but it's a lead I was glad to be done with.

Thought this route was a little hard even at 10b only going to the first chains, which is rated 10a. We did do it on a hot and humid August day, so that may account for some of the percieved additional difficulty. Hardest move I thought was getting a stance while holding the sloper on top in order to clip the chains. Fun route.

Imagine sliding across a hardwood floor in woolen socks! Your feet are more harm then good! Excellent route nonetheless. My first .10 in the valley, totally worth it!!

Only climbed P1.
Slick down low, but with killer fingerlocks and the occasional jam. The friction improves as the route progresses. The crux seemed to be clipping the chains.

P2 if done as aid is an alternating bolt and rivet ladder, with a reach right to the tree. Buncha slings on them with three aluminium rings, in good condition as of 20130205.

Rivets have wing nuts on them so they feel super safe.

Great aid practice! Fun to free also but only if you like them manufactured. Pin scarred to shit!

This was my first valley lead, first ever trad lead over 5.10, and 3rd climb ever in the valley. Stupid. It does take pretty solid gear though, and I definitely zipped it up. Getting off the ground was not nearly as tough as clipping the bolts.

The first ascender was Mike Jefferson, not Mark!