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Routes in Church Bowl

700 Club S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aunt Fanny's Pantry T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bishop's Balcony A1 PG13
Bishops Terrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitches' Terror T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black is Brown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Book of Revelation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Church Bowl Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Church Bowl Lieback T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Church Bowl Terrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Church Bowl Tree T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deja Thorus T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energizer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Haley's Little Warm-up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jacob's Ladder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
More Balls Than Brains TR A3 PG13
No Rest For The Wicked T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oral Roberts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Parkay Squeeze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
Pole Position S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Revival T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shomer Shabbat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tammy Fae T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Uncle Fanny T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walk On the Water S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad
FA: Bruce Price, Michael McLean, 1/70.
Page Views: 3,763 total, 28/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 17, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Follow the low-angle chimney to the left of "Church Bowl Lieback". Continue up 5.7 at the chimney's end.
This is a good route for learning basic chimney technique.
Rappel.

Protection

Pro to 3".

Photos

King Tut
Citrus Heights
 
King Tut   Citrus Heights
 
^^^^ Hahahahahahaha

Mega-do-must-Classic for plastic climbers.

If you think this one is bad try the first pitch of DNB. Jan 3, 2017
Pavel Burov
Russia
 
Pavel Burov   Russia
 
One of the best 5.7 to kick all s&@t out of gym 5.12 climber's lower back :)

Bring some purple/green to yellow/blue cams, 70m rope, a double shoulder sling, a couple lockers and a couple of plastic climbers ready to crash Yosemite granite at 5.11 or 5.12 grade. Have fun! Oct 14, 2014
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
  5.7
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
  5.7
If you are looking for sweet chimney action, do not abandon the chimney. A hand crack in the back and some heel-toeing will get you up to the final finger crack in no time. Very protectable as far as chimneys are concerned. Oct 11, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
  5.7
BITD when I climbed this route, I did something similar to Floyd Hayes and abandoned the chimbey for some pleasant crack and flake climbing to the right. It's much nicer that way! I was able to use entirely passive pro as well. The chimney is a real grunt. Sep 11, 2011
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
Interesting climb... I had a hard time doing standard chimney moves since I'm 6'2".... Lot's of heal-toe & chicken wing moves for me. Great climb to work on this technique. It's a lot easier if you're harness is not full of gear (like most tight climbs) May 18, 2011
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.7
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.7
Easier than the 5.7 OW on Crescent Crack in Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT, with better pro too! Awkward enough to get you working, but once you figure out a ratcheting sequence, it's not too bad and never insecure. I spent more time deciding which side to put in than on figuring out any later moves (ultimately I chose left-side in). Dec 14, 2010
Floyd Hayes
  5.8
Floyd Hayes  
  5.8
After grunting through the first squeeze chimney and nearly getting stuck (I'm 5'10"; right shoulder in worked best), I stepped right onto the face and found the face/crack climbing to the right of the gully MUCH more enjoyable and well protected. If you plan to lead up through the gully without running it out, it looks like you'll need an ample arsenal of 1-2" gear, more than I had available. Aug 2, 2010
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
Even Don Reid warns about Yosemite being a valley of demanding cracks. I think he saved it for the topo of this pitch. The fact is that it has smooth granite with perfect chimney/squeeze/offwidth moves. You can take a no hands rest after every move on the bottom of this climb. Just look at the picture and you will see the solid foot-to-knee jams for the outside leg. Also, look at the perfect elbo-to-palm jam for the outside arm. You can get this jam on the inside as well. Just make sure the elbo is above the palm. You can really move off this jam exclusively while resting on the knee-to-foot. Do this one left side in, and remember to only move a couple of inches at a time. After practicing your technique, the hardest part will be picking the leaves out of the hand jams on the top half of the pitch. Enjoy!!! Dec 30, 2009
I agree. This was the most brutal and unnecessary 5.7 ever. Oct 27, 2008
craig512
Nor-Cal
  5.7
craig512   Nor-Cal
  5.7
This is a heck of a squeeze job even for being super skinny like me. Best bet was to keep my right side facing the chimney and inching up from there. If nobody is on the Lieback, go that route instead. Oct 9, 2008