Deflowered Wall-"Deflowered" follows the wide crac...
Description
Deflowered offers a nice range of crack widths and styles over its length, starting with shallow, flaring twin cracks at the bottom before moving into a nice wide chimney, then a lieback flake, and finally a bit of steep, bouldery fist/OW to the finishing jugs. It's a fun climb in a location that has a really short, easy approach, yet doesn't have a lot of the traffic of the climbs closer to Hidden Valley. Not a showstopper, but definitely fun if you're in the area (and aren't you more or less always in the area?)
Vogel rates this climb a 5.6 -- if so, it's the hardest 5.6 I've climbed at JT. Feels like a good solid 5.7 in my book.
As you enter Steve Canyon from the direction of Hidden Valley CG, Deflowered will be on the right side, about two-thirds of the way up -- on the opposite side of the canyon from Super Roof (Vogel describes this section of Steve Canyon as "Upper East Side (West Face)"). Look for a large chimney that splits the face (5.4); Deflowered takes the slightly narrower crack that starts about 10 feet to the right (down-canyon). Start on top of a large block.
Protection
Standard rack to 3" plus a few slings to reduce rope drag -- the route is straight up and down, but some pieces will have to be placed deep within alcoves and chimneys.
This odd climb is made fun by starting in the cave below the usual starting blcok. Adds a bit of caving expereince to the whole thing and an otherwise interesting climb.
I climbed this route quite a few years ago. Both my partner and I found it harder than six plus a little odd in a way I can't remember. I might go back just to see why it sticks in my mind; however, I don't think the reason is positive.
I climbed this route several years ago and remember not liking it much. I recall thinking it felt off-widthy, awkward and generally unpleasant. But it probably didn't help that my partner (mostly a gym climber at the time) decided not to follow, so I got to pull my own awkward gear on rap . . .
5.7 for sure. i tried to chimney the route instead of going deep into the crack , big mistake as the chimney just flares and gets wider as you go higher. "Deflowered" is the perfecr name for this route as i felt i had been dealt the sandbag of a lifetime but then pulled through it with techniques i didn't know i possesed. an awesome route , awkward , painful, scary , FUN .
This one has an old-school feel to it. And I'm not old-school. But I liked in none the less. It might be 5.6 if you do it right. Rap rings to climbers left.
Steve Canyon
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