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Deflowered
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.2 from 117
votes
Routes in Grain Surgery Wall
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Decompensator of Lhasa, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Deflowered T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fist Full of Crystals T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Grain Surgery T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hoopharkz T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Phineas P. Phart T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Phineas' Pinnacle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Super Monster Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01915, -116.16642 |
| FA: | Don O'Kelley & Dave Davis, October 1971 |
| Page Views: | 5,639 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Reynolds on May 15, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Deflowered offers a nice range of crack widths and styles over its length, starting with shallow, flaring twin cracks at the bottom before moving into a nice wide chimney, then a lieback flake, and finally a bit of steep, bouldery fist/OW to the finishing jugs. It's a fun climb in a location that has a really short, easy approach, yet doesn't have a lot of the traffic of the climbs closer to Hidden Valley. Not a showstopper, but definitely fun if you're in the area (and aren't you more or less always in the area?)
Vogel rates this climb a 5.6 -- if so, it's the hardest 5.6 I've climbed at JT. Feels like a good solid 5.7 in my book.
As you enter Steve Canyon from the direction of Hidden Valley CG, Deflowered will be on the right side, about two-thirds of the way up -- on the opposite side of the canyon from Super Roof (Vogel describes this section of Steve Canyon as "Upper East Side (West Face)"). Look for a large chimney that splits the face (5.4); Deflowered takes the slightly narrower crack that starts about 10 feet to the right (down-canyon). Start on top of a large block.
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