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Routes in Grain Surgery Wall

Decompensator of Lhasa, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deflowered T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fist Full of Crystals T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Grain Surgery T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Hoopharkz T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Phineas P. Phart T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Monster Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Randy Vogel, Brian Rennie and John Long
Page Views: 2,930 total, 16/month
Shared By: Randy on Jan 18, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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57 Opinions

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Description

Steve Canyon is a well known windy day crag; this route (which faces west and is sunny most of the day) is a good bet when the "phoon" winds strike. This route is located on the upper of two west facing formations that constitute the east side of Steve Canyon. This is a fun, moderate face and crack route with decent protection.

Start up the farthest left major crack system; where it peters out, a bolt protects moves up and left to a horizontal. Above (crux) face climb past 1 more bolt to the summit (several variations exist).

A 2 bolt anchor is found on top, Either rappel or take the easy (Class 4) walk off (left) under the block.

Protection

1 to 2 inch cams work pretty well to protect the crack and horizontal; 2 bolts.

Photos

Richardo
  5.10a/b PG13
Richardo  
  5.10a/b PG13
Took at 30 footer after the last bolt--super clean fall, really great protection up until the last bolt. Jan 16, 2014
ericangusmd
  5.10b
ericangusmd  
  5.10b
Good outing. Guidebook gives it R rating - probably fair given the possibility of a 40 footer albeit steep enough to be clean. Mar 21, 2012
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Yeah that last bit surprised me - very scary. Jan 10, 2010
Shipp
laguna beach, ca
  5.10b R
Shipp   laguna beach, ca
  5.10b R
This climb is definitely about the mental crux which is 10' past the last bolt and one move from the top. From the last bolt, there is a 10b move right, probably 2 10a moves up, a 5.9 move about 10' beyond the bolt and then another 5.7+ move to top out. Really fun. Feb 28, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a/b R
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a/b R
Quality, varied climbing. Some nice crack at the bottom, a fun transition to friction climbing, and a nice technical crux at the bolt. The final run to the top is definitely sporty - there is a 5.9 move required about 10 feet above the bolt - so for me that was the "mental" crux. Apr 9, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
A great mix of crack and face climbing on a clean face. Like Murf says, it helps to be solid at the grade as the upper face is a little sporty. Three stars out of five. Nov 24, 2004
Murf  
A fun route, and a pleasure to follow one of the FA's up 20 years later. Not sure the budding .10a leaders should be queueing for this one. But as with many JT routes "if you are solid at the grade..". Jan 20, 2003