Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Randy Vogel, Brian Rennie and John Long
Page Views: 3,232 total · 17/month
Shared By: Randy on Jan 18, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Steve Canyon is a well known windy day crag; this route (which faces west and is sunny most of the day) is a good bet when the "phoon" winds strike. This route is located on the upper of two west facing formations that constitute the east side of Steve Canyon. This is a fun, moderate face and crack route with decent protection.

Start up the farthest left major crack system; where it peters out, a bolt protects moves up and left to a horizontal. Above (crux) face climb past 1 more bolt to the summit (several variations exist).

A 2 bolt anchor is found on top, Either rappel or take the easy (Class 4) walk off (left) under the block.


1 to 2 inch cams work pretty well to protect the crack and horizontal; 2 bolts.


A fun route, and a pleasure to follow one of the FA's up 20 years later. Not sure the budding .10a leaders should be queueing for this one. But as with many JT routes "if you are solid at the grade..". Jan 20, 2003
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
A great mix of crack and face climbing on a clean face. Like Murf says, it helps to be solid at the grade as the upper face is a little sporty. Three stars out of five. Nov 24, 2004
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a/b R
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a/b R
Quality, varied climbing. Some nice crack at the bottom, a fun transition to friction climbing, and a nice technical crux at the bolt. The final run to the top is definitely sporty - there is a 5.9 move required about 10 feet above the bolt - so for me that was the "mental" crux. Apr 9, 2006
laguna beach, ca
  5.10b R
Shipp   laguna beach, ca
  5.10b R
This climb is definitely about the mental crux which is 10' past the last bolt and one move from the top. From the last bolt, there is a 10b move right, probably 2 10a moves up, a 5.9 move about 10' beyond the bolt and then another 5.7+ move to top out. Really fun. Feb 28, 2009
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Yeah that last bit surprised me - very scary. Jan 10, 2010
Good outing. Guidebook gives it R rating - probably fair given the possibility of a 40 footer albeit steep enough to be clean. Mar 21, 2012
  5.10a/b PG13
  5.10a/b PG13
Took at 30 footer after the last bolt--super clean fall, really great protection up until the last bolt. Jan 16, 2014
Simeon d
Phila, PA
Simeon d   Phila, PA
I fell at the top. I thought it was scary and hard to commit to the moves with a bunch of rope out. I would love to return but what really got me scared was the moderate crack at the beginning that I wasn't able to get the rt gear in. Maybe I'm the only one who thinks that? Great fun anyway! Nov 17, 2018
The initial crack takes pretty decent gear. A smaller cam in the horizontal provides good pro getting to 2nd bolt. Nov 29, 2018