All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Natio… > The Outback > Steve Canyon Area > Steve Canyon > Grain Surgery Wall
The Decompensator of Lhasa
Avg: 3.2 from 43 votes
Routes in Grain Surgery Wall
|Decompensator of Lhasa, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Deflowered T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Fist Full of Crystals T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Grain Surgery T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Hoopharkz T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Phineas P. Phart T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Super Monster Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|FA:||Charles Cole and Randy Vogel, February 1980|
|Page Views:||3,799 total, 21/month|
|Shared By:||Randy on Jan 18, 2003|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionLocated on the right hand face of the upper east side of Steve Canyon. Start off a boulder to the right of the large central chimney system (Hoopharkz, 5.4).
From the boulder, reach out right to a horizontal and the left-arching crack system above (small cams). A direct start is possible (5.11c/d) but the complete lack of pro keeps people off. Above, gear in the horizontal protects moves up to steep friction past 2 bolts (crux). Higher, a third bolt protects a traverse right to the arete where a 4th and last bolt protects moves to the top.
As an alternative start, begin some 15-20 right and below the boulder up right slanting cracks to a ledge (5.10a/b). Belay here (to avoid rope drag) and traverse left to the upper bolted face. This is actually the way the first ascent went.
When this was first done in EB's, the smearing seemed way hard; modern rubber has taken the bite out of the difficulty.