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Routes in Grain Surgery Wall

Decompensator of Lhasa, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deflowered T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fist Full of Crystals T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Grain Surgery T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Hoopharkz T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Phineas P. Phart T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Monster Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Charles Cole and Randy Vogel, February 1980
Page Views: 3,799 total, 21/month
Shared By: Randy on Jan 18, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Located on the right hand face of the upper east side of Steve Canyon. Start off a boulder to the right of the large central chimney system (Hoopharkz, 5.4).

From the boulder, reach out right to a horizontal and the left-arching crack system above (small cams). A direct start is possible (5.11c/d) but the complete lack of pro keeps people off. Above, gear in the horizontal protects moves up to steep friction past 2 bolts (crux). Higher, a third bolt protects a traverse right to the arete where a 4th and last bolt protects moves to the top.

As an alternative start, begin some 15-20 right and below the boulder up right slanting cracks to a ledge (5.10a/b). Belay here (to avoid rope drag) and traverse left to the upper bolted face. This is actually the way the first ascent went.

When this was first done in EB's, the smearing seemed way hard; modern rubber has taken the bite out of the difficulty.

Protection

Small to medium cams, 4 bolts.
nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
nathanael   Riverside, CA
 
Quite fun. Wait for a cool or cloudy day and combo this with Grain Surgery and Sidewinder and you've got an excellent afternoon of top notch face climbing in a very consolidated area. Feb 13, 2017
Richardo  
 
Great route--As of December 2013, there is no bolt anchor at the top, contrary to the Miramontes guidebook... Jan 16, 2014
Souljah
Northern NM
Souljah   Northern NM
I agree with David. I recall making one thin "intermediate" move at the crux which I was told would be unnecessary for a taller leader. I would rate this route a Billy Barty c/d. /Fun Apr 26, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
The rock on the slab is super solid and inspires more confidence than many a gritty face in J-tree. The climb offers variety, novelty and length sufficient to be one of the better single pitches in the park in my opinion. Nov 29, 2010
Charles I.
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Charles I.   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Do the right hand start for more bang for the buck. Its not very hard and it gives you a really fun traverse to reach the left arching crack (hopping off the big boulder looked scary and it skips some good climbing). Make sure and take advantage of ALL gear opportunities high in the crack in order to adequately protect the section leading to the first horizontal. The crack pinches off quickly and you may find your self pretty runout like I did. Great face climbing leads up and right past bolts to a very cool arete and then the top. Jan 14, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10c
A great crack and friction combo climb!

I did the left approach (stepping off the block). I slung the block for protection until I got my first piece in and then had someone unclip it.

The crack bit seemed around 5.9 to me, and the protection at the top of the crack was a little fiddly. The bolts protect the friction climbing well, and the crux is definitely a steep smearing bit between the 2nd and 3rd bolt.

The final rounded arete is a blast! Must do IMO. Apr 9, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10d R
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10d R
Not exactly super bomb pro for the crack leading to the face which precludes the cruxy area exiting the second horizontal. Jan 28, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.10c
C Miller   CA  
  5.10c
A nice route that doesn't see much traffic. The face climbing isn't as difficult or sustained as apperances might suggest. Three stars out of five. Jan 10, 2004
If you are tall (6'+) this route is a giveaway! Jan 23, 2003