By C Miller Administrator Jan 13, 2004 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+E1 5a
Despite the name, this route has fun jamming on decent rock with a very short approach.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Bend, OR Apr 12, 2006 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+E1 5a
Great route! This route deserves more traffic in my opinion. No approach, fun steep jamming, good gear, and shady all day. Next time you're on the way to Illusion Dweller, tick this one too. I found a #3 Camalot useful for the final move to the top.
By Jesse Davidson From: san diego, ca Mar 24, 2008 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+E1 5a
Better route than "In the Pit" in my opinion. I agree this would be a great first .10a crack lead. Protects nicely, and good footholds to the left of the crack make it easy to place gear. The only drawback is its proximity to the popular trail. Expect onlookers.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Bend, OR Apr 22, 2008 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+E1 5a
The walk off is easy if you find the right path. Descend into the tunnel directly climbers-left from the top of the rock. Head N in the tunnel towards the start of your climb. Make some 4th class chimney/hip-scum moves and voila - back at the base of the climb.
Really fun route. Yes it is sharp, and tape is recommended, but the jams are sweet!
Not to be missed. It's right there, but it seems overlooked. Would be a fun outing to hit up Illusion Dweller & Ball Bearing along with it. It is indeed sharp, but makes for solid jams. 10a is fair and a good audience can be fun sometimes.