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 ADVANCED
Gateway Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broken Glass T 
False Tumbling Rainbow T 
Hands Away T 
In The Pit T 
Lay Back And Do It TR 
Martin Quits T 
Pit Bull Attack T 
Semi Tough T 
Solo T 

Broken Glass 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Charles Cole, Gib Lewis and Randy Vogel, December 1979
Page Views: 914
Submitted By: Randy on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Nearing the top of Broken Glass (5.10a), a worthy ...

Description 

This route lies on the left side of a buttress of rock, near the northeast corner of Gateway Rock. It lies about 50 feet right of Solo.

Just as you enter into Real Hidden Valley, where the nature trail "T"s, look left to the northeast corner of Gateway Rock. This dogleg crack lies on the east (left) side of a small buttress.

This climb has cleaned up very nicely over the years. A good lead for someone breaking into the grade.


Protection 

To 2.5 inches.



Photos of Broken Glass Slideshow Add Photo
enjoying solid shady jams on Broken Glass
enjoying solid shady jams on Broken Glass
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By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 13, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Despite the name, this route has fun jamming on decent rock with a very short approach.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 12, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route! This route deserves more traffic in my opinion. No approach, fun steep jamming, good gear, and shady all day. Next time you're on the way to Illusion Dweller, tick this one too. I found a #3 Camalot useful for the final move to the top.

By Jesse Davidson
From: san diego, ca
Mar 24, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I liked it... except for the sucky walk off

By Tyler Logan
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 2, 2008

Better route than "In the Pit" in my opinion. I agree this would be a great first .10a crack lead. Protects nicely, and good footholds to the left of the crack make it easy to place gear. The only drawback is its proximity to the popular trail. Expect onlookers.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 22, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The walk off is easy if you find the right path. Descend into the tunnel directly climbers-left from the top of the rock. Head N in the tunnel towards the start of your climb. Make some 4th class chimney/hip-scum moves and voila - back at the base of the climb.

Really fun route. Yes it is sharp, and tape is recommended, but the jams are sweet!

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jul 18, 2011

Longish video of the climb. Best viewed with the shades down.

By Tommy G.
From: Irvine, California
Nov 15, 2012

Not to be missed. It's right there, but it seems overlooked. Would be a fun outing to hit up Illusion Dweller & Ball Bearing along with it. It is indeed sharp, but makes for solid jams. 10a is fair and a good audience can be fun sometimes.