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Routes in Gateway Rock

Broken Glass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Tumbling Rainbow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hands Away T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In The Pit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lay Back And Do It TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Martin Quits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pit Bull Attack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Semi Tough T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Solo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Mike Lechlinski, Mari Gingery, John Yablonski, Charles Cole, Dean Fidelman, 10/79.
Page Views: 1,423 total, 7/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This fine thin crack lies on the right-hand section of the north end of Gateway Rock. Approach by walking into Real Hidden Valley, turn left at the "T" intersection, and after about 100 feet, turn to your left. You will see Semi Tough as the left of 2 very thin cracks/seams on an otherwise smooth north facing block. Head left in a wash, then up boulders to the base.

An awkward (balancy) thin crack/ramp start leads to finger locks to thin hands to hand crack. Descend off the back then down and to the right.

Protection

Thin to 2 inches. Pro is bomber and easily placed.
Simon H
Oakland, CA
 
Simon H   Oakland, CA
 
I laughed at Tony B's comment, quite the astute observation. I didn't think this one deserved the upgrade in the new Miramontes guide - i found it "techier" than Imaginary Voyage, for example, but no more difficult.

This route has more of a "downclimb" than a "walkoff". I headed down climber's left, which worked ok, at 4th+ Apr 27, 2012
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.10d
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.10d
Always feels good to re-try something that kicked your ass and find that it's not so bad. Not sure what my problem was last time; the holds are all there, and they're pretty good... Apr 15, 2010
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.10d
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.10d
Like everyone else who commented, I thought it was cruiser 5.10 climbing that had me wishing it was longer the whole time... all except for the part where I got beat down, hanging on gear, crying for my mommy. Feb 2, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
It might be 11a... but only if it is too easy to be 10d, if you know what I mean! I kept waiting on a crux there- it was over quickly before I was even really looking for it. So you may be right- perhaps we should downgrade it from 10d to 11a? Apr 2, 2007
John Dubrawski
  5.10d
John Dubrawski  
  5.10d
I was always told this was 11a, but I see it here it is a 10d concensus. Seems about right. Apr 2, 2007
Josh Beck
  5.10d
Josh Beck  
  5.10d
Good fun, bouldery at the start, excellent rock. Too bad it isn't longer! Nov 28, 2004
C Miller
CA
  5.10d
C Miller   CA  
  5.10d
An engaging climb that protects well with mostly wires (RP's or equivalent are handy at the start). Nothing larger than a red Camalot should be needed for the anchor. I'd maybe choose 5.10d/11a for a rating but it's not available as an option. Jan 13, 2004
Tim Bui  
Fun climb! Solid all the way up and protects really well. May 6, 2003