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Routes in Gateway Rock

Broken Glass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Tumbling Rainbow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hands Away T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In The Pit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lay Back And Do It TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Martin Quits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pit Bull Attack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Semi Tough T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Solo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Tobin Sorenson, 1976
Page Views: 804 total, 4/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route lies on the northeast corner of Gateway Rock. Just as you walk into Real Hidden Valley (where the nature trail "T"s, look left and you will see this widening crack in a two-tiered, left facing corner. This is Solo.

Named after Sorenson's free solo FA and in refernce to the short climbing film of the same name.

Protection

Up to 4-5 inches.

Photos

Wagreich
Long Beach, CA
Wagreich   Long Beach, CA
Not worth it. Looks beautiful from the ground, but much of the rock is crumbly and exfoliating, and there's not more than about 10 moves to the whole thing (once in the lower crack). The descent is MUCH longer than the time taken climbing it, and is NOT trivial.

If you still want to climb it, make sure to bring a #5 camalot, otherwise you're in decking territory past the second or third move on the higher platform. You could use some offwidth technique, but it seems more appropriate to layback. Just my 2 cents. Dec 24, 2012
Ryan Kelly
work.
 
Ryan Kelly   work.
 
A 4" might keep you from rolling off the middle tier if you fell on the dihedral layback, but it won’t keep you from hitting the middle deck for all but a couple moves. You’d need a 5 or 6, otherwise you’re essentially soloing the upper section. Same goes for the lower, plug a #1 and go. By the time you get to 2” you’re on perfect jams and you only have 2 moves left to jugs. The only reason for needing any pro for the first half is because it starts on a ledge 20 feet up.

I have no idea where you'd place 2.5". Apr 21, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Gear to 2.5"? I haven't done the route but based on the photo....sure looks like it goes to 4" to me.

True?

~Susan Oct 29, 2006