Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jon Lonne & Dave Ohlsen, September 1976
Page Views: 1,424 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

This line is described as being on Gateway Rocks, but is actually an east-facing line about half-way between the Gateway and the Tumbling Rainbow formation. This short, striking fingercrack stands alone and is obvious when viewed from most points on the south or east sides of the Valley Loop trail. Approach as for routes such as Semi Tough but continue further west to the east-facing wall.

Belay in the jumbled boulders at the base of the route and cast off upwards on good locks with good gear for the entire route.

If it were a full pich long, it would be a classic, but it's just too short to rave about. I guess for it's length it is great. In fact, if it were 3X as long, it would be a whole pitch! Fun none the less.

Protection

1 run of cams from the smallest you have to 2".A few larger units for a top-anchor/belay if desired. Nuts could also be used to pro the entire line.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10c
Short but fierce in my opinion. Painful finger locks with marginal feet through the first 20 feet. The gear is good though. Apr 22, 2008
Chris M
Hailey, ID
  5.10c
Chris M   Hailey, ID
  5.10c
Bottom is pumpy and the crux- just plug and chug. Rock is painfully sharp Nov 3, 2009
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
This would have more stars if longer. Quality climbing. Dec 28, 2013
master gumby  
 
so splitta - for 25 feet. Worth doing if real hidden valley is crowded and your looking to jump on something. Good practice in flared tips jamming. 22 hours ago