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Routes in Gateway Rock

Broken Glass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Tumbling Rainbow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hands Away T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In The Pit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lay Back And Do It TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Martin Quits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pit Bull Attack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Semi Tough T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Solo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jon Lonne & Dave Ohlsen, September 1976
Page Views: 1,223 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This line is described as being on Gateway Rocks, but is actually an east-facing line about half-way between the Gateway and the Tumbling Rainbow formation. This short, striking fingercrack stands alone and is obvious when viewed from most points on the south or east sides of the Valley Loop trail. Approach as for routes such as Semi Tough but continue further west to the east-facing wall.

Belay in the jumbled boulders at the base of the route and cast off upwards on good locks with good gear for the entire route.

If it were a full pich long, it would be a classic, but it's just too short to rave about. I guess for it's length it is great. In fact, if it were 3X as long, it would be a whole pitch! Fun none the less.

Protection

1 run of cams from the smallest you have to 2".A few larger units for a top-anchor/belay if desired. Nuts could also be used to pro the entire line.

Photos

Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
This would have more stars if longer. Quality climbing. Dec 28, 2013
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.10c
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.10c
Bottom is pumpy and the crux- just plug and chug. Rock is painfully sharp Nov 3, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10c
Short but fierce in my opinion. Painful finger locks with marginal feet through the first 20 feet. The gear is good though. Apr 22, 2008