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Routes in Gateway Rock

Broken Glass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Tumbling Rainbow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hands Away T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In The Pit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lay Back And Do It TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Martin Quits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pit Bull Attack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Semi Tough T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Solo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Bob Gaines & Dwight Brooks 1/88
Page Views: 77 total · 0/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This rarely done climb is well worth doing if you climb the routes Semi Tough or In The Pit.

Begin about 20 feet left of Semi Tough, at the left-hand arete of the north face. Stem your way up until you can reach into a layback crack (10a) that leads to a ledge. Above, tricky face (10d) past a bolt leads to the top. Descend off the backside, then down and right.

Protection

pro to 2", one bolt

Photos

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The top section of the route is kinda forced and poorly protected for the follower. No possible directionals up top. After attaining the ledge, clip the bolt, reeeeeach far left to the arete holds and then up. Gear anchor is wayy off to the right near the top of Semi-Tough. Best choice for follower (and maybe leader, too, depending on size of huevos) is to unclip the bolt and step right about 5 feet on the ledge and topout via the Semi Tough crack. Neat start with the wide body stem and airy transition into the thin crack Mar 31, 2014

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