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From: SL UT
May 22, 2010
|Some of my best days at the black cliffs were on sunny cold winter days on the south facing cliffs and blistering hot days spent hiding in the shade on the north facing cliffs. The north and south sides have entireley different approaches. Consult Epeldi's book for the best published info for the south side approaches. The black cliffs can be a really fun place to climb, but it is by no means a destination. Out of the 100's of climbs, most are boringly similar. There are a handful of standouts though. The area is composed of numerous crags that are in close proximity. Digging in my memory for the standout sport climbs...Bologne Pony 10d-short cliffs, Unknown Leon 11a-short cliffs, Jet Screamin Hooter Queens 11b-tall cliffs, Pictures of Lily 11b-west car body canyon, Men Who Pause 11d-scary canyon, Beef Curtain 10d-scary canyon, Boise Gun Fighter 11d-scary canyon, The Groveller 11d-the dark side, Chassin a Snake 11d-the dark side, Sexual Underground 11c-easter island, Ehrlichman 12c-the nixon head, Watergate 13a-the nixon head.|
By Cassidy Thomas
From: Salt Lake City, UT
5 days ago
The Black Cliffs are seriously underrated in my opinion. I grew up in Boise and climbed here in high school. Never realized how much I loved this place until I went two years without climbing here. It's great climbing of varying difficulty that's very accessible from town. For some reason, the MP pages for the Black Cliffs are not very developed, you're much better off buying the "Boise Climbs" guide book by Sandy Epeldi. It's very easy to find climbs using this book.
Aside from that, here are few other words of advice. The cliffs are black and they get HOT. Main climbing season, like most other places, is the Spring and Fall when their are moderate temperatures, but expect the cliffs to feel 10-20 degrees hotter than the valley. During the summer, get up early to climb. My goal was always to be topping out on my first route right as the sun was coming up. I would wake up at about 4:30, leave home at 5:15, be at the cliffs 6, top out on my first route between 6:15-6:30. Maybe take a light jacket in the early mornings. As soon as that sun comes out though, you will bake, it will feel 125 degrees. By noon in the midsummer, most rock in the sun is just too hot. However, lot's of East Carbody Canyon will remain in the shade until the afternoon. Additionally, West Carbody will be in the shade in the evening (climbing after work or school).
While the black rock makes it a little tricky to get longer days there in the Summer, it allows the rock to be claimable in the winter and colder fall and early spring days. The rock heats up very quickly in the sunlight. My mark any day all year round was 40 degrees and sunny. If those two criteria are met, you can have a fantastic day climbing on this basalt.