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Routes in Tall Cliffs

Balloon Party TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beta Junkie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Circumciser S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dolly TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fly the Friendly Skies T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Full Tilt Boogie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grandpa's Route S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hara-Kiri in a Combine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Horrible Human History T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
In Cahoots TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jet Screamin' Hooter Queens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Joe Pro T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muchachas Borrachas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Stinky Hole S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Number Eight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Number Eight Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rosy Palms T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thanks for the Mammaries S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown bolted route between Number Eight and Dolly S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Matt Fritz, Steve Young '91
Page Views: 1,001 total, 16/month
Shared By: R.Walters on Oct 7, 2012
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures. Details

Description

This route offers a unique contrast between its lower and upper sections.
Scramble up some broken choss for ~20 feet until you can step up and clip. The technical crux comes at and above bolt 2 with stems and side-pulls leading to a somewhat difficult third clip.
After this, the route steepens and offers great movement between spaced, positive holds all the way to the top.

Have your belayer watch you closely through the crux as you end up a bit above bolt 2 with the choss ledge not far below.

Location

This is the right-most line at the main wall at the Tall Cliffs.
Look for the line of 5 bolts in tan rock starting ~20' from the deck.

Protection

5 bolts, chains.

Photos

bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Peter must be bad at raising money...I moved YEARS ago... I wish I could just flyover that state and not have to always driveover it on the way to real climbing... Sep 23, 2016
Idaho is a flyover state. Nothing here worthwhile at all. We all just can't wait till we can raise enough money to move somewhere really cool. Sep 23, 2016
BBQ
BBQ  
I have never been to the Black Cliffs. I actually consider Idaho to be a flyover state, but goddamnit, I really, really want to go climb this route now. Aug 13, 2016
zach cook
Boise, ID
zach cook   Boise, ID
super fun movement, do it! Feb 7, 2016
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b/c
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b/c
This might be the most beta intensive route at the the Black Cliffs. The route description is not kidding. On my first attempt I fell trying to clip the third bolt. I spent the next couple weeks hobbling around on a black and blue ankle and unable to climb. So watch yourself. That being said, if you can figure out all the sequencey beta, this route is an absolute classic (for the cliffs). Mar 6, 2015