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Routes in East Car Body Canyon

Ambition is Critical S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Basalt Somersault T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boys-r-Blue S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citizens Against Spiders T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cleaning Lady, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Luck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eyeless in Gaza T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gargling Vinegar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hershey Squirt S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Holiday in Cambodia S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Industrial Age, The S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jen's Dilemma T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Lunch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Macabre Roof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neon Leprechaun S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pansy - Direct, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pansy, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Raisin the Titanic T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Hudson S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Scream, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spasm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sperm Whale S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spice of Life, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Temporary Insanity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Terminal Hypocrisy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tin Man S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Two Studs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whaleback Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whimper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whitehead Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wimp Roof S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Tom McLeod ~ 1975
Page Views: 2,332 total · 27/month
Shared By: Cory Harelson on Aug 17, 2011
Admins: Mike Engle

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Description

This climb features beautiful double hand cracks that eventually lead up to a roof, which is split in the middle by a crack. In Sandi Epeldi's book the roof is described as "a classic boulder problem in the sky", and I'd have to agree.

Location

This climb is located roughly in the middle of the East Carbody Canyon wall.

Protection

This climb is very well protected and will suck up as many nuts and cams as you care to throw into it. There is a two bolt anchor on the comfortable ledge above the roof.

Photos

Route can be sewn up all the way. Long runners under the roof definitely are helpful. Throw in a few cams at the roof, find the feet, and pull it! Variety of holds, but the footwork is the tricky part. Probably wise to wear a helmet--hit my noggin a couple of times pulling out onto the roof. Oct 12, 2012
Maurice Chaunders
boise, id
Maurice Chaunders   boise, id
Like the man says...easy lead up 2 cracks to a fun and committing boulder problem, with great pro. 2 purple camalots slide in nicely in the roof crack. You can place gear above the roof, but those cracks are better for hand holds. No pro after the roof, but it's a mellow scamp up the chains. May 15, 2014
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I agree. Tons of options for larger gear as you stem up the dihedral. Two 0.5 C4 purple Camalots with longer slings were perfect in the underside of the roof crack to sew up the crux. Especially if you happen to take a huge whipper trying to pull the roof, as I did the first time! There are plenty of options for gear above the roof although the climbing is easy. Don't miss this awesome route! Oct 5, 2014

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