Wire Brush Hair Cut
Avg: 3 from 5 votes
Routes in The Dark Side
|D.O.A. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Floating on Gravel T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Good Friday S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Groveler S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Physical Graffiti S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Promiscuity Crack T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Safety Dance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Virgin, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Wire Brush Hair Cut S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft|
|FA:||Tom McLeod, 80's|
|Page Views:||156 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||R.Walters on Sep 17, 2012|
|Admins:||WAGbag, Mike Engle|
Seasonal Raptor Closures. Details
DescriptionThis route begins with some interesting stemming and liebacking. After the second bolt, move up and right to the arete on big holds. The fourth bolt, which protects the crux, can be clipped from a nice stance. The crux itself is a neat boulder problem involving crimps, side pulling, and a tough move to a good right hand from which to clip the next bolt.
From here, things ease up, but not too much as you're left pumped and pulling up to a strenuous mantel before finishing on a slightly runout but easy slab.
It is also apparently possible to go out right at the crux on larger holds, bringing the grade down to 11b.
LocationLook for the cleanly cut column forming a roof at about 20' with a bolt at its lip. This line begins just left of here in a L-facing corner.
After the crux, ascend directly up the bolt line, ignoring the two bolts splitting leftward which mark the finish for Fotzhobel 12c.