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Routes in The Dark Side

D.O.A. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Floating on Gravel T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Friday S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Groveler S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Physical Graffiti S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Promiscuity Crack T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Safety Dance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Virgin, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wire Brush Hair Cut S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tom McLeod, 80's
Page Views: 156 total, 2/month
Shared By: R.Walters on Sep 17, 2012
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Seasonal Raptor Closures. Details

Description

This route begins with some interesting stemming and liebacking. After the second bolt, move up and right to the arete on big holds. The fourth bolt, which protects the crux, can be clipped from a nice stance. The crux itself is a neat boulder problem involving crimps, side pulling, and a tough move to a good right hand from which to clip the next bolt.
From here, things ease up, but not too much as you're left pumped and pulling up to a strenuous mantel before finishing on a slightly runout but easy slab.

It is also apparently possible to go out right at the crux on larger holds, bringing the grade down to 11b.

Location

Look for the cleanly cut column forming a roof at about 20' with a bolt at its lip. This line begins just left of here in a L-facing corner.
After the crux, ascend directly up the bolt line, ignoring the two bolts splitting leftward which mark the finish for Fotzhobel 12c.

Protection

6 Bolts to anchors consisting of 2 Metolius rap hangers and 2 chains.
The hanger on the stud protecting the crux appears to be from the FA and could probably use replacement. The rest of the hardware is modern.

Photos

R.Walters  
 
I agree with you, Heller. I thought that clipping the 5th bolt from below would have been nearly impossible (for me).

The fourth bolt, which is easy to clip, protects the crux, but is at or below your feet when you are making the last difficult move. But it's nothing but air below.

Edit: Suspect hardware updated to stainless as of Oct 2015.

Also.. rattlesnake spotted near the eastern edge of the Dark Side cliff band recently. Keep an eye out, especially during shoulder season.

Here's the old hanger:
Oct 7, 2012
bheller
SL UT
  5.12a
bheller   SL UT
  5.12a
I always found it easier to do all the moves through the crux and clip from a better hold up higher...longer fall potential, but less chance blowing the crux clip. Those homemade hangers are a bit un-nerving... they used to be found on chassin' a snake too, but were replaced in 2005 or so... They are also found on Flight 1713 in Scary Canyon. Sep 20, 2012