Birdsboro Quarry 

Alright climbing. bolts are in good shape are replaced when needed. Wear a helmet! this is an old quarry and I've seen my climbing partner shift 2 coffee table size flakes no problem. Giant wall gets great sun and on a 40 degree sunny day can be quite enjoyable to climb. Does have some ice in winter, though top roping is sketchy to rig. Lower slabs have a tendency to be wet but offer some fun climbs.

BEWARE! Some rock is reglued!

Definitely not best climbing spot in the world, but one of the better ones in Eastern PA!

I'm putting up the route list as listed in the super helpful map someone else put together. I suggest looking at the map.
PLEASE provide positive feedback.

Sweet, thanks. I've been looking for info on individual routes here for years. If you've climbed/seen them, would you mind listing distinguishing features, i.e. crack, corner, etc.

I'll be editing and adding in more information about the routes with some more detailed description of the climbing, bolt counts, anchor descriptions and some photos. Hopefully people do the same and help out. It's pretty tedious getting all these routes up and listed at once.

If you are going to add all the routes can we please sort them into the specific walls?!?

Luke, if you're interested in creating New Areas for each section at Birdsboro, you can go ahead and make them and fill them with routes.

I thought about creating new areas but decided against it. Birdsboro is kinda small and the idea of creating new areas for each section of the wall, then adding routes didn't seem to make much sense. More importantly, I wanted to be able to search for routes by grade throughout birdsboro using the "Routes best for me" feature. I put the name of the wall each climb is on in the "Location".

More routes have gone up in the last several weeks. The guys who do a lot of the route setting are going to be working on topos and possibly a website.

Ill be visting family in PA in few weeks and i think id like to climb here. what kind of traffic does it get mid august? i had no idea there was climbing like this in PA. how big of a rack should i bring? any trad or is it all bolted? Any info is appreciated, thanks.

Scott M...if you are the Scott that I think you are, please speak up. You know who is doing all the bolting!

LOST: pair of 10.5 anasazis last Monday. hope someone found these as they were no longer at the cliff on Saturday!

Also, does anyone have any beta for King Solomon?

A website has been created for birdsboro. It is a static site at this time. It presently only has a link to info. on the recently passed annual clean and climb. The site is birdsbororockclimbing.org As I understand it, further site development is forthcoming.

GPS to parking area at the cables

N 40.25386 W 75.81385

4th Annual Birdsboro CLimb and Clean

All, please join us for the climb and clean at Birdsboro quarry on September 25th/26th. Camping starts on Friday night. We will be cleaning and climbing all day on Saturday. Followed by a community dinner with entertainment and raffle (lots of great gear) on Saturday night at the Pavillion in Rustic Park. Sunday we will resume climbing and finish up any project work.

For those of you with non climbing friends, we will have equipment, ropes, belayers and we will set up some TRs.

All proceeds from the dinner and raffle go to cliff maintenance.

Awesome thank you so much. I am very excited to check this place out. There will be a few of us coming down for the weekend to do some climbing.

I had a great time over the weekend at the quarry. Thank you to everyone that was very kind and helpful in pointing out good routes to do. I am definitely going to be investing in a helmet for the next time i go there.

I climbed at Birdsboro for the first time last weekend. While there, I onsighted Crackalicious- apparently a new 5.13. It was easily the best climb I did that day, but definitely not 5.13. The hardest I've onsighted before was 5.12a at softly rated areas (Red Rock, Potrero). I'm guessing more like an Indian Creek 5.11.

Hi my names Chris and I bolted Crackalicious. I would like to say awesome job to Ktlusci for being the first person to onsight Crackalicious. However I beleive the grade to be a 12b to 12c, especially if you consider all the grades of other climbs at the bird. Def. not a 13 as listed.One other person redpointed it before you, and I have the first accent on Trad gear. But Im very impressed that you got the onsight . Hope to see you out at the bird sometime in the spring. As for now cant wait for ice!!!

It is hard to compare an IC corner to Crackalicious. IC routes are more about overall fitness and sustained low-intensity movement, while Crackalicious has a definite crux move. I think that once/if Crackalicious receives more traffic its grade will fall into the 5.12 range.

5th Annual Birdsboro Climb and Clean

All, please join us for the climb and clean at Birdsboro quarry on September 16th-18th. Camping starts on Friday the 16th. We will be cleaning and climbing all day on Saturday. Followed by a community dinner with entertainment and raffle (lots of great gear) on Saturday night at the Pavillion in Rustic Park. Sunday we will resume climbing and finish up any project work.

For those of you with non climbing friends, we will have equipment, ropes, belayers and we will set up some TRs.

All proceeds from the dinner and raffle go to cliff maintenance.

I just heard that there was an accident at Birdsboro 5 weeks ago where a climber had a bolt blow, decked and broke her back. Does anyone have information on this accident or know where I can find some details?

A lot of my gym friends climb here and I am always worried for them.

I think the accident you heard of was not a broken bolt, but a broken carabiner. The bolt end carabiner of the draw broke and looked like the nose-hooked failures shown here.

Mojo, thanks for sharing the Black Diamond link.

Anthony, I know two climbers recovering from fractures that happened on falls at Birdsboro this summer. Fortunately both of them are recovering well. I also know a near miss happened this year on Jenga, where a falling rock severed the end of a rope, but in lucky circumstances where nobody was hurt.

These, and prior years' rappelling accidents, remind us to climb smart. All of these accidents involve common and inherent risks of sport climbing, and could have happened at any sport crag. I always wear a helmet at Birdsboro now, and read climbing accident reports to become aware of unsafe climbing habits I might have.

But Anthony, I wouldn't worry about your friends climbing here unless they're reckless about it. I've known people who fractured bones in gym falls.

Thanks Mojo, Justin.

I confirmed that it was a nose-hook failure.

Always wear a helmet!

Found a shoe in the parking lot today. If its yours please describe it and i will return it to you.

Will be in the area and looking for a partner(s) 4-7 APR. Can lead up thru 10s but am happy climbing at any grade. PM me at rgraver9106@hotmail.com if available or w suggestions.


Bob

2 small pieces of info for anyone heading up any routes on the reservoir wall:

Today while climbing Swimming with the Fishes(I think) I stemmed out right and knocked some blocks loose. There were some others precariously loose that I pushed down as well. One large piece in excess of probably 300 pounds clipped the traverse cable. It was damaged but we didnt seem to think it would affect the strength. I'll contact the guys that take care of the area and let them know.

Also there is a nesting goose a few feet to the left of the 2nd bolt on Loch Ness. She didnt seem happy, but stayed on her nest, just a heads up.

Climb Safe and wear a helmet in this area! I somewhat question the safety of some of these climbs until more loose rock is knocked off, there is a lot up there.

What's the story with routes in the bigwall section? Like, what length rope would I need to do the climbs in 1 pitch? Also, what's the deal with the gun range?

Pete - the local police occasionally use the quarry as a gun range. A 60m rope will do fine with the lower offs on the big wall - It's not really two pitches... it's just got first anchors and second anchors. The long slabs are two real pitches, you need to do two raps if you do both.